Hey friends!

We've been very busy behind the scenes so have had a little hiatus on our blog - but we wanted to duck back to give you some tips for braving this frosty dog walking weather!

It seems our extended Summer has come to a close in Melbourne, with the strong onset of freezing winds and rain this week. While most dogs don't mind (hello entire Retriever population), we humans tend to find soggy, muddy, and chilly conditions a little off-putting to say the least. Hands up who's peering out of the office window right now thinking "hmm, I'd rather not, thanks!"

Thing is, an icy blast needn't (and shouldn't) put a stop to your hound's outdoor expeditions. Pet parents often see an increase in undesirable dog behaviour like barking and destructiveness in the Winter months because they abandon the dedicated dog walking routines they had throughout the rest of the year.

While we don't recommend being outside in dangerous weather (like hail, thunderstorms, or extreme heat), generally your pup needs a run and play every single day... yes, even when it's raining cats and dogs!

Making sure your dog continues to have their daily exercise sessions throughout Winter leads to a happier, healthier, and better behaved canine in the long-run.

As seasoned all-climate explorers, there are a few secrets we have in making the experience of walking in Winter much more tolerable... even enjoyable! So to help you survive the bitter cold and drizzle, here are our Top 3 Tips for dog walking in Melbourne's winter!

TOP 3 WINTER DOG WALKING TIPS

1. SUIT UP

Step 1: Get yourself some great dog walking gear! Depending on the conditions we use gore-tex (waterproof) trail shoes, or proper hiking boots. Shoes are the one part of your outfit you can't skimp on - we tried all the cheaper brands, and inevitably found they would wear out within a couple of months. For the rest of your kit we recommend layering with light thermal tops, windbreaker jackets, and vented raincoats. Don't forget a pair of waterproof pants ("plastic pants" as my Mum loves to call them) and a beanie or headband. Great adventure clothes don't have to be expensive, especially if you buy them at an outlet store.

2. GEAR FOR YOUR DOG

As the saying goes, "nothing in the world is friendlier than a wet dog", but your interior decor may not agree! We recommend leaving a few dog towels at your front door, and in the boot of your car, to dry off after a slushy park or beach session. The best place to source these is at local op shops - they are only a couple of dollars each, and you're supporting a good cause. A raincoat may also be a sound investment for your dog (pending their willingness to wear it), but make sure to consider the density of your dog's coat, and their usual activity level at the park, before purchasing anything. If your dog is very athletic, and/or thick-coated, a heavy insulated parka may make them overheat. Likewise, if your dog is elderly, and/or has a single short coat (like a Greyhound), you may need a warm fluffy jacket to keep them comfortable.

Hot tip: a natural leave-in conditioner will transform "wet dog smell" into "freshly washed dog smell"!

3. PROTECT YOUR DOG-MOBILE

Anyone who has a water-dog knows the pain of witnessing their pooch discover a big dirty puddle before having to transport them back home in the car. Though we now ferry dogs about in customised vans, we used SUV's for several years, which we had kitted out to minimise mess. Rubber mats for the foot-wells and boot space were an absolute must, as was a sturdy back-seat hammock. After testing a number of seat protectors, we found this was again an area where we needed to invest in quality, as many of the inexpensive products would quickly fall apart. The hammock we used was around $150 and it did a fantastic job of protecting our cars as they taxied many four-legged passengers!

With these tips, getting out for walks in Winter will be a (cold) breeze! But if you want to stay warm and dry, drop us a line at

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Hi friends,

We've dropped in to discuss a bit of a dirty topic... Digging!

Digging is a commonly-expressed training problem by dog owners and one of the major reasons why pet parents seek professional training advice. So if you come home from work every evening to a new crater or three in the backyard, you're really not alone.

We've seen a lot of canine excavation work over the years, and for some of our clients' dogs it's been the main reason they've sought our help. Whenever we talk about digging with anyone, I always think of one dog in particular - a Border Collie called Checkers. I'll never forget the cavernous trenches that Checkers used to dig in the garden lawn... they were so big you'd think they'd been holed out with earth-moving machinery! Needless to say, Checkers' family were a little beside themselves with a garden that resembled an off-road driving course! If this is starting to sound familiar to you, keep reading!

HOW CAN I STOP MY DOG'S DIGGING?

The answer to every problem lies in the question - why does your dog dig in the first place? There are a number of reasons why your dog could be 'redecorating' your backyard, and the solution you'll need to implement will depend on the root cause.

In many cases, dogs dig because they feel bored and frustrated without enough mental and physical stimulation (e.g. exercise), and/or they feel lonely and isolated without the company of others. You might notice other destructive behaviours signalling boredom, such as incessant barking or other destruction in your backyard. We've seen everything from washing pulled off the line to completely removed and dismantled sprinkler systems! If you do notice these things - it's a good idea to have a friendly chat with your neighbours. Boredom and loneliness can go hand in hand, and your dog may be barking or howling throughout the day without you even knowing it.

There are situations where digging doesn't simply come down to boredom, loneliness, or frustration. Some dogs dig holes and sit in them to regulate their temperature - they may be feeling too hot or too cold throughout the day (our dog walking crew loves digging holes in the sandpit at Kooyong Park on a warm day). Others may dig purely for the fun of it. And in some cases, digging dogs may actually be suffering from serious mental distress (e.g. Separation Anxiety) and this can only be treated with professional help.

OK, SO NOW I KNOW WHY IT HAPPENS. HOW CAN I FIX IT?

Before you try to fix your dog's digging, it's important to remember that dogs operate within a vastly different "life perspective" to humans. As much as your dog may seem human at times, they simply aren't. Dogs don't operate within the same mental framework as humans - amongst many other things, they don't perceive "right" and "wrong" like we do. And just to clear something up: your dog doesn't know what they did was wrong because they have a "guilty" facial expression. They are just appeasing you because they know you're not happy!

It's so easy to forget how canine your dog is when they are such brilliant, intuitive companions. It's also easy to forget how many of our own thoughts and beliefs are subconscious. Many training issues stem not from dogs failing to understand their humans, but humans misunderstanding their dogs. Don't fall into the trap of falsely believing your dog is "purposely misbehaving" - this misconception only leaves you (and your dog) feeling frustrated and upset, without any solution to the problem. As much as you know your dog, at the end of the day, your dog is from a different species and they speak a different language. The absolute best thing you can do in the process of working with your dog is to empathise with them, and try to understand. Despite how it looks, your dog is doing the best they know how with the skills and coping strategies they currently have. Make sure your expectations are fair, realistic, and helpful. This doesn't just make for a nicer training experience with your dog - it makes for a much more successful one too.

So, a few things you can do to address your dog's digging.

If your dog is digging because they are too hot or too cold - you need to make adjustments to their environment. Perhaps it's about leaving them inside with the air conditioning or heating on, or if they must be outside, perhaps they need a coat in Winter, or a paddle pool and some extra shade in Summer. If heat is the problem, maybe they also need a good groom or brush to help remove some of that dense undercoat.

If your dog is digging because they simply enjoy it - they might need an acceptable outlet to express this. How about a sandpit with some buried toys? At the same time, you should consider cordoning off parts of the garden that you don't want to be dug up, as your dog will not necessarily understand what you mean by "this is your designated digging area, Checkers".

If your dog is digging because they are bored - most likely you will need to step up both their mental and physical stimulation. To keep their brain happy, give them some more "appropriate" activities such as occupier or puzzle toys and slow feeder bowls. You could incorporate extra trick training into your time together and/or visit more interesting locations like an agility park or the dog beach.

fulfilment they need to chill out and relax for the rest of the day.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST

A couple of final pointers on digging - remember to keep an eye on the holes/tunnels, particularly near your fence line to ensure your dog isn't making a break for it. Watch your dog's nails to ensure they aren't split or cracked, as this can pose health problems. If you're considering fake turf, remember to provide lots of shade as synthetic grass doesn't tend to stay cool like real grass and can heat up to scorching temperatures in Summer (unless there are heat-resistant variants available). And lastly, just bear in mind that this behaviour doesn't change overnight, but with the right approach it will taper off. In the meantime, it could be worth somewhat accepting the fate of the lawn and moving any valuable plants to the front garden!

Well, there you have it - Digging 101! Thanks for reading, and if our advice helps you solve your doggy digging dilemma, let us know on our Facebook or Instagram pages! We'd love to hear from you.

Hi friends!

If you're anything like me, you probably love a good book - and when it's a book about dogs, even better!

I've got an entire shelf (okay, more than one) dedicated to books about dogs at Heads & Tails HQ, and earlier this week I pulled out one of my all-time favourites. As soon as I opened it I realised I just had to share it with you.

No, it's not Marley & Me. Although I recommend you read that too!

I can't remember how I came across Poisonous 2 Pets by Nicole O'Kane - it was so many years ago, but I'm so glad I did as I've never found anything else remotely similar since... and in case you're wondering, I'm no stranger to Dymocks!

Poisonous 2 Pets is a one-of-a-kind Australian reference book detailing the toxicity of certain plants to our beloved pets. Sadly, as many great ideas, this book was born out of a situation in which it was truly needed. After Nicole's own puppy Brandy became seriously ill after eating a plant in her backyard, she wanted to research more about common flora dangers, but found the information remarkably difficult to come by. Fortunately for us, Nicole was inspired to compile an extensive full-colour handbook of common garden plants and their risks. With this invaluable tool, any pet parent (particularly those with puppies or notorious chewers) can make their yard genuinely dog-friendly.

There are hundreds of plants detailed in this fantastic resource, each separated into categories of toxicity. Every plant (or plant family) has a dedicated page displaying photos and a description, plus areas the plants are commonly found. Most importantly, the toxic parts of each plant are specified together with the effects each component has if touched or ingested. We recommend anyone with a dog and a garden pick up their own copy here, but in the interim we thought we'd give you 7 of the most toxic plants named in this book, so you can ascertain whether these sneaky offenders are growing in your yard!

Fatal Flora

Being in the "high toxicity" classification, most of the below listed plants can quite literally be deadly and in very small quantities. It goes without saying to contact your Vet or visit your closest Emergency Centre immediately if you know or even suspect your pet has come into contact with any of these plants.

1. Abrus Precatorius

This slender climbing vine goes by a few different names (such as jequirity bean, rosary pea, or crab-eye seed) and the part to be especially wary of is the seed, which is red with a black spot. If chewed and swallowed this can cause a range of symptoms including convulsions, blindness, and circulatory collapse.

2. Red Maple

Maple trees are easily distinguished by the shape of their leaves - which are the most hazardous part of the tree (at any stage of growth). If eaten, the leaves can cause reactions such as an abnormally rapid heart rate, jaundice, and cyanosis.

3. Amaranth

Often referred to as "pigweed", this is quite a common plant used in parks and gardens. Though Amaranth has long been harvested for use in cooking for humans, it is not at all safe for dogs. The leaves, stems, and roots of Amaranth are all poisonous and can lead to lethal kidney failure.

4. Algae

Unless you have a fish pond, algae may not be such a problem in your backyard. However, it's certainly prevalent in water bodies in areas where you may walk your dog. It's important not to let your dog swim in water containing algae (including blue-green algae) as it triggers a number of health problems, one of the least pleasant is severe damage to the blood vessels and liver cells.

5. Daphne

Despite it's sweet appearance, Daphne is anything but sweet when it comes into contact with a dog. The whole plant is toxic and can cause cardiac and neurological problems as well as internal bleeding. Definitely one to avoid!

6. Delphinium

Like many of the plants mentioned, this one is an umbrella term which relates to a number of subspecies. There are actually about 250 plants under the Delphinium umbrella but they can normally be identified by their remarkable flowers. Unfortunately for dogs, Delphinium causes things like an irregular heartbeat and respiratory paralysis, so it's best to steer clear.

7. Christmas Berry

Not a merry time does the Christmas Berry bring! The red berries of this tree are highly poisonous as they contain cyanogenic glycosides - if ingested, death can occur within 15 minutes!

Bear in mind as you walk around the garden hunting for these plants that this is far from an exhaustive list; there are a number of other extremely poisonous plants listed in this book which we haven't outlined today. A very quick mention about the entire Nightshade family (e.g. tomato, potato, eggplant) and the entire Prunus clan, which refers to a group of over 400 trees or shrubs including Cherry, Peach, Plums, Almond and Apricot. Perhaps we'll go into these another time!

In the meantime - just be mindful. As Nicole states at the beginning of the book, "it's not my intent to discourage you from planting any of these plants or to discard the ones that you may already have, it is just to make you aware of the potential hazard these plants may have in relation to your pets." Your dog may take absolutely no interest in the flora that colours your backyard, but if you know this isn't the case, it could be worth making some little adjustments to your garden!

Until next week, take care and happy walking! :)

Hi friends!

Now that the Summer holidays are over, many of us are jumping back into our old routines - back to work, back to school, back to our regular fitness and activity programs etc. Free time throughout the week is no longer quite so available, and has once again become a precious commodity!

Whilst we are busily getting organised to resume our usual schedules, it can be easy to forget that this time of year can be a little tough on our furry four-legged friends. After becoming quite accustomed to having someone at home most of the time, it might come as quite a shock to find everyone has suddenly disappeared and the house is once again quiet for a large portion of the day.

Dogs are social creatures who have been bred over many years to become the quintessential human companion - our friendship is essentially part of their genetic makeup. So don't be surprised if they become a little uneasy during "back-to-school" season, and this manifests as some additional chewing, digging, or barking - it's in no way a show of rebellion or disrespect. They just miss you!

The good news is there's some easy things you can do to help minimise the impact of "back-to-school" season on your dog and help them feel included as the family returns to standard weekday life. Read our top 5 tips below!

Back To School Tips For Lonely Pups!

1. THE SCHOOL RUN

If you're lucky enough to live close by to school, morning drop-off and afternoon pick-up time provides a great opportunity to not only exercise and interact with your dog, but also teach your kids about traffic and safe dog walking through the local area. If school is a little further afield and requires a car trip, why not pick up a safety harness for your K9 so they can be included on the drive!*

2. AFTER SCHOOL ACTIVITIES

Make use of our extended daylight and great weather at the moment, and consider including your dog in after-school activities. You could do a few laps of the oval during after-school sports, or go for a walk with your pupper during music lessons. Maybe you could adjust your fitness program to include your dog - skip the gym in Summer and go for a jog with dog instead!

3. DIVVY UP YOUR WALK TIME

We get it - the busy school and work routine often doesn't leave room for an hour's walk before work, or a big romp at the park in the afternoons. But how about a 25 minute walk in the morning, and a 35 minute play in the afternoon? Shorter, more frequent walkies may be instantly more feasible in a busy day - with the added benefit that it gets you out for a couple of breaks to enjoy the great outdoors!

4. HELP FROM YOUR LITTLE HELPERS

Now, we're the last to say that dog walking is a "chore" - we love it so much that we do it every single day! But adding your dog's care into the kids' list of chores makes it a priority for the day and has benefits beyond the valued physical and mental stimulation of your dog. Taking care of a pet helps to teach kids in a practical sense about skills such leadership and responsibility - attributes that are extremely valuable later on in life!

5. TRAIN THE BRAIN

Although nothing quite matches human companionship, you can help to ease your dog's loneliness by leaving them things to do in your absence (besides dig holes, sing to the neighbours, and chew the furniture). There are fantastic puzzle toys available in stores and online which can be filled with food and given to your dog for a fun challenge which appeals to their hunter/scavenger origins (to step things up - hide puzzle toys around the house or garden).

Of course, if you're still finding your dog is bored, frustrated, lonely, and/or destructive after trying all of these things - or you simply don't have time - it could be worth phoning a friend. And by that, we mean us!

If these tips gave you an idea or two please help us by sharing this post and liking us on Facebook so we can spread the word about what we do and assist other dog owners just like you!

Have a great week and happy walking!

*Just a little reminder never to leave your dog unattended in the car - not even on an overcast day!

Hi friends!

I'm sure most dog owners can relate when I say that, after knowing your dog for a while, you pick up on the tiniest of changes in their body language. And this is a great thing, because body language is the most useful form of communication between owner and dog. But did you know that your dog's body language isn't just an indicator of their mood - it can also give you clues about their physical health.

Short of seeing a clear injury on your dog, a change in body language is one of the best ways to tell if they are in pain. The problem is, while there are similarities to human body language, canine body language is a unique dialect... and so you can miss important signs and signals if you don't know what to look for.

There's only one thing worse than knowing your dog is in pain - and that's not knowing they're in pain. Though no pet parent feels happy being told their four-legged bestie is in discomfort, the benefit of this knowledge is that it gives owners the ability to take appropriate action and treat the problem.

There are a myriad of different reasons as to why a dog could be in pain, and only a Veterinarian can accurately diagnose this. Just like people, dogs may suffer from any number of injuries, illnesses, or health conditions that cause them grief - and countless treatments to remedy these. The key is to knowing something is wrong in the first place.

Though we can't give you medical advice to treat your dog - we can give you the run down on common body language signs to watch out for in your dog, which may hint at a deeper issue. We hope this helps to maximise the communication between you and your dog such that you can recognise their pain as soon as it occurs, and seek the treatment they need.

+++ 7 CANINE PAIN SIGNALS +++

1. HAVING DIFFICULTY GETTING AROUND

2. EATING, DRINKING, OR SLEEPING DIFFERENTLY

If your dog normally enjoys their food (as most do) and suddenly turns their nose up at it - they may be doing so as they are in pain. Sudden appetite changes are a big hint that something isn't quite right with your dog, and it's important to monitor them closely and seek advice if this happens. A change in appetite can signify any condition, including musculo-skeletal, but also gastro-intestinal such as a tummy virus, gut infection, parasite infestation, or foreign body ingestion (eating things they shouldn't). If your dog is refusing their food, this could also be due to dental pain, particularly if there is nerve exposure within the mouth. In order to notice appetite changes in your dog, it's a good idea to take stock of how much they would normally eat when they are feeling well (and how enthusiastically), so you have a yardstick to compare the change to.

If you notice your dog suddenly drinking a great amount of water, this can point to anything from stress, to foreign body ingestion, to kidney-conditions... and again, it helps to know how much water your dog would normally drink.

Dogs that are in moderate pain will usually sleep for longer periods and more frequently than average dogs as this is part of the healing process. However, if the pain is extreme, dogs may understandably find it difficult to sleep at all.

3. CHANGES TO THE BODY SHAPE AND POSTURE

Think about your dog's silhouette - you can picture it, right? A noticeable change in posture or body shape is a clue that your dog may not be feeling 100%. If parts of the body become lumpy or swollen, this can indicate pain causes such as bites or stings, infections, inflammation, or tumours. You may notice your dog is unusually restless and can't seem to get comfortable. A dog who is constantly hunching or bowing down requires urgent Veterinary attention as this can be a hallmark sign of bloat, a gut condition that is lethal if not treated immediately.

4. BEHAVING STRANGELY

Your dog is your best mate, and you know their personality well. Behaviour changes may occur suddenly or over time, and it's important to remember that any apparent behaviour changes can be a telltale sign of pain. Dogs who are in pain may seek solitude so may stop greeting you at the door and start hiding under the bed. Behaviours such as aggression, barking, howling, and even pacing around the house can be mistaken as obedience issues when in fact they can stem from a physical cause, and it's important to cross any possible health conditions off the list before assuming the changes are behavioural and undertaking training.

5. DROOLING EXCESSIVELY

Excessive drooling is a particularly concerning pain signal as it tends to indicate some of the more severe injuries and illnesses in a dog that require fast treatment. There are certain dog breeds that are normally slobbery, such as the Newfoundland or St Bernard, but for dogs who don't usually drool, it's important to talk to your Vet. Excessive drooling can be a sign of nervousness or anxiety (which can be treated with the help of a positive trainer) or even motion sickness. However it can also point towards serious health problems such as choking, heat stroke, foreign-body ingestion, and even things like fracture and ACL rupture in which case the pain may be so extreme that it causes nausea, which in turn triggers drooling. If you ever notice your dog foaming at the mouth, go to the Vet without delay as this is a hallmark sign of poisoning.

6. GROOMING THEMSELVES LESS OR MORE

Sometimes dogs lick themselves because they can - but sometimes they are attempting to soothe themselves. There are cases in which obsessive licking is a psychological issue, but it's important to eliminate physical causes from the realm of possibility before coming to this conclusion. Dogs who obsessively lick their paws may do so for any reason, from a small prickle stuck into their paw pad or minor infection, to more concerning reasons such as internal bone or ligament damage. Dogs may obsessively lick their tail and rear due to problems such as parasites, dermatological complaints, or impacted anal glands. Importantly, dogs may not always lick the area of their body that is in pain - it may simply be a coping or distraction mechanism from the root cause, so it is important to look for any other signs of a health condition.

7. SHAKING

A shaking or trembling dog may be easily mistaken as feeling a bit chilly or suffering the old age jitters, when it fact this can indicate things such as pancreatitis, epilepsy, kidney failure, neurological disorders, or poisoning. It's important to understand what is normal for your dog: some dogs may shake with excitement at times, but in most cases shaking is not normal and should be checked out promptly, remembering that the more serious conditions are often very time-sensitive. Even if shaking is due to chronic ongoing problems (e.g. arthritis) there are treatments and therapies to consider which will help to reduce pain.

8. HAVING TROUBLE BREATHING

Some short-snouted dogs have restricted breathing as part of their breed make-up, and will labour more than the average dog after a walk or on a hot day. If your dog does not normally labour in their breathing and you then notice wheezing, straining, or heavy panting, this is a fairly clear signal that they may be in pain. Causes can include conditions like chest infections, injuries, allergies, foreign body ingestion, toxicity, heat stroke, cancer, heart problems, and even metabolic diseases. Coughing is often (but not always) a sign of Bordatella (aka Kennel or Canine Cough) which is very treatable, but highly contagious. Inform your Vet if your dog is coughing before your appointment, as they may ask you to enter via a separate entrance to minimise risk to other patients. It's important to take your dog to the Vet or Emergency Centre quickly if you notice they are having breathing difficulties, especially if there is a sudden onset.

It's valuable to bear in mind whilst thinking about dogs and pain, that although dogs may share similarities with their kin, each dog is individual and so the way they express pain may be unique to them. Two dogs may suffer the same health condition and display different symptoms - so it's impossible to rely on any online advice to diagnose your dog's condition.

Secondly, in our experience over the years we have found that most dogs are very stoic and don't tend to express pain in the way that we would. A dog in pain may still wag their tail when it's time for dinner or a walk. For this reason it's very easy for health issues to go unnoticed until they are quite advanced. In addition, a dog with compromised health often won't limit themselves as much as they ideally should to protect their health - that is, many dogs don't know when to stop, so it's vital we make this decision for them if we suspect or know there is an injury, illness, or other ailment.

If you've found this blog at all helpful, please help us and others by spreading it around. The more dogs and dog owners we can assist to live healthier and happier lives, the better. Come and like our page on Facebook too, where we share our expertise, tips, and advice... together with pics and vids of what we do, and the odd meme for good measure.

Lastly just a little reminder that whilst we've spent a long time working with dogs, the information we provide of course does not replace the amazing personalised medical advice from your Veterinarian. If you have any concerns about your dog, speak to your Vet, and if you need a recommendation for an awesome Vet Clinic... PM us on Facebook!

Til next week, goodbark!

Hi friends,

I thought I'd use this blog to tackle a subject that affects almost every dog owner in ways they don't even realise - your dog's diet. But firstly, I have a confession to make.

Before I entered life in the Pet Industry, I had NO idea about dog food. Generally, there was less awareness and information about nutrition for dogs - something that has changed drastically in the last 20 years. But it was also just the "done thing" to buy whatever was on special at the supermarket in the pet food aisle back then. That, in conjunction with table scraps and the odd bone, was considered a royal diet for a dog up until the late 90's and early 2000's... and dogs being dogs, would certainly never complain about it!

Fast forward to 2006... I was applying for various graduate jobs after University and ended up doing well at MARS Petcare: the largest pet food manufacturer in the world. Between my interview and the factory tour, I remember having a conversation with one of the Senior Managers who asked me what I fed my dog, and I can't remember what my answer was, but it obviously wasn't satisfactory. I remember him telling me how much healthier and happier my dog would be on a higher quality diet - and in retrospect, perhaps this is why I didn't get the job after all! Anyway, together with a lifelong love of dogs, this was what piqued my interest in pet well-being and kicked off my career in the pet industry.

Following this experience I was fortunate enough to land a job at MARS' rival, Nestlé Purina, by which time I had upgraded my dog's diet to something much more respectable! As part of my role I learnt about pet nutrition, but over the years I have researched this personally and discovered the adage "you are what you eat" applies to dogs just as well as it does to us.

At Heads & Tails, we've worked with countless dogs on every diet you can think of, from the budget variety through to the ultimate gourmet fare, and in doing so we've been able to draw some really solid lines between dietary intake and other health factors that many people don't know about. Whilst we won't have time in this article to go into a full breakdown of pet foods, ingredients and recommendations, I wanted to give you an understanding of some simple, tangible things you could expect to improve if you upgraded your dog's diet to something even a little more premium.

Bear in mind this article isn't just for the economy-feeders. Some of the more expensive brands on the market (e.g. over $100/bag) are nutritionally disappointing - so you could absolutely be spending a lot of money on pet food right now and losing out on value in areas you don't even realise. The point is, no matter what you're currently feeding, there is almost certainly something better available, be it a superior product, or something more tailored to your dog and their needs. The trick is in finding out what that is.

And just a heads up, we haven't included raw diets in this article, as this is an entire post unto itself!

+++ 3 Major Benefits of a Diet Upgrade +++

1. Your dog will poop less!

Have you ever wondered why there's just SO much mess to clean up in the backyard? Or why you go through 3-4 bags on every walk?

One of the most obvious differences we see between dogs' on various diets is their "output". Without getting too scientific, this variation is largely due to the amount of fillers present in the food each dog eats. Fillers are ingredients like wheat and corn which make dog food cheap to produce for manufacturers. Because fillers have very low nutritional benefit for dogs, they aren't well-absorbed in the body, which means they become waste (i.e. dog poo!). They also tend to burn up very quickly compared to high quality ingredients such as meat, leaving your dog feeling less satisfied. Fillers aren't just used in budget brands - you can be buying "super premium" or even "prescription" dog food and be paying for mostly fillers that are simply packaged by popular brand names.

To move away from fillers, you generally need to consider a more expensive food, but the expense isn't as big as you think. When comparing the cost, bear in mind that cheaper foods containing fillers offer a false economy. You need to feed your dog a substantially higher volume of lower-grade foods to meet their intake needs because, basically, most of it ends up on your lawn. In a truly high quality food, most of your dog's meal is absorbed into the body, meaning they produce much less poo, and far less often. Everyone's a winner!

2. Your dog will smell better!

I'm sure that nearly every dog owner out there can relate to the displeasure of a gassy dog, and certainly in our place there have been occasions where our dogs have caused us to leave the room!

In conjunction with a product's ingredients, one thing that can affect dogs' digestion (particularly in the flatulence department) is the format in which this food is prepared. And although any "complete and balanced" dog food is required to have all the vitamins and minerals your dog needs to survive... obtaining those things from a lower-grade dog food can be really hard work. Not only is the gut overworking attempting to digest fillers, it also goes into overdrive trying to extract the nutritional goodness from something that is highly processed and refined. The upshot of this is often some seriously nasty turbulence!

Done gradually, a diet upgrade will see a drastic reduction in dog farts, as the gut will be under less strain digesting higher-quality ingredients and potentially also in a more digestible format (depending on what you switch to). So you can chuck those nose-pegs away and breathe a sigh of relief!

3. Your dog will shed less hair!

Unless you have a curly-coated dog like a Poodle, you'll be on the same page as us when it comes to the nightmare of prolific shedding. At times throughout our dogs' lives, vacuuming has just about become a competitive sport in our household. Sometimes there have been weeks where our dogs have shed what seems like an entire dog's worth of hair and we wonder how they have any hair left. Also, how does it get into cleanly-washed socks?!

We made a diet upgrade earlier this year, and one of the moments I can pinpoint that we decided to do this was during a doggy Physio assessment for our dog, Ralph the Labrador. Given, Ralph had a little back massage from his therapist during the session, and this would cause a bit of disruption to any coat. But we left SO much hair in the consult room during our appointment that the Vet nurses had to go and grab a vacuum before the next patient went in...!

More than the inconvenience of hair loss, what was of great concern to us was what the hair loss was saying about our dog's health. We'd just had clear blood results back on Ralph a couple of weeks prior, so diet seemed the logical cause, and after we altered this we noticed major changes in his coat. Not only did the shedding significantly lessen, but his coat became sleek, soft, and shiny. Triumphantly, our vacuum is also now bored and neglected!

Whilst there a number of factors at play here (e.g. we changed from kibble to a freeze-dried food), we put it down to the fact that the food we switched to contains much higher-quality ingredients. We weren't using a budget food beforehand; in fact it was super-premium grain-free performance food. But it was also much less expensive, and we rationalise the quality of the ingredients must have been considerably lower. Unfortunately this is very difficult to determine when pet food labelling is so ambiguous - not like human food labelling. Whilst a canine product says "chicken" on the front, shoppers can't know things like how much chicken it contains, what parts of the chicken are included, where the chicken is from, or whether the "chicken" is simply chicken flavour. There's more omitted from a dog food label than there is included, and reading between the lines is something even Vets can have trouble with.

We did a lot of research before we made the switch, but one big clue we can offer is to look at top-dollar products and work backwards - then you'll have a much better idea of what you are/aren't missing in the less expensive brands. There are also some handy analytical tools online which can help you gain an understanding of your dog's food and how it stacks up. And just remember as you consider those more expensive options, that aside from benefiting your dog's health, you will also probably recoup some of the cost in other areas, such as your cleaning, grooming, and Vet bills!

This isn't an exhaustive list of benefits to better diets - there are some other massive factors scientifically-proven to be affected by food intake, such as overall health, behaviour, and even lifespan. But certainly the above points are things you'll notice on a daily basis, which many don't even realise can be influenced by what they put in their dog's dinner bowl. Now you know!

If you enjoyed this post, and you're interested in knowing what foods we use, get in touch with us on Facebook. And if you're one of our treasured clients who needs a recommendation for your dog - please sing out. We're here to help!

In the meantime, remember to follow us on Instagram for happy snaps and like us on Facebook where we share helpful tips & info, the odd meme, and other houndly stuff with our dog-loving community!

Hi friends!

We thought we’d stop by and chat about a little contraption that has taken our industry by storm over the last few years… bark collars.

Traditionally, bark collars have been used on dogs as a deterrent to noisemaking – they can either be remote controlled or they can automatically react to both sound and vibration. The concept behind bark collars is that they reduce barking by deploying some form of unpleasant consequence at the exact time the barking occurs (e.g. a spray of citronella, an ultrasonic noise, or an electric shock). The dog learns to associate the punishment with the behaviour and as a result, the behaviour stops.

Except it doesn’t really work like that, and here’s why.

A dog’s bark is their voice – and not every noise a dog makes is a bark. They may vocalise in any number of ways including coughing, sneezing, snoring, yelping, or groaning, and as with barking, it is their natural and normal prerogative to do this. A bark collar can’t necessarily distinguish between these different noises, and as a result, dogs wearing them may be reprimanded for something they have no control over. In fact, we’ve heard of dogs’ bark collars being tripped by other dogs barking near them, and loud noises which aren’t even barks at all.

When it comes to actual barking, we must acknowledge that dogs bark for a reason, and this too is completely fair. They may be bored, frustrated, anxious, stressed, or lonely… the bark itself is simply the hallmark of a deeper issue. As we know, the most effective solution to any problem is to treat the cause, and not the symptom – but bark collars fail spectacularly to achieve this. Bark collars are a “band-aid” approach, the use of which rejects important factors for consideration, such as a dog’s mental and physical health or their environment. Whilst barking may not be desirable to us or our neighbours, there may be circumstances in which even we would agree it is entirely expected, particularly if we consider life from the dog’s point of view. And outside of these circumstances, when our dogs really do bark constantly for no apparent reason, we must still sit in empathy with our four-legged friends to understand the underlying cause for this behaviour. A bark collar completely disregards any valuable insights we might have about our dogs’ wellbeing, and also completely removes our opportunity to improve this.

Not only this, but bark collars cause compounding angst to dogs in the process of chastising them for their emotions – as if feeling bored, frustrated, anxious, stressed, or lonely isn’t unpleasant enough, imagine then being punished for those sentiments. Moreover, a bark collar deploys a punishment for any bark: even those barks which are elicited as a result of happiness or excitement. This would be enough to drive even the most sane and rational of us completely neurotic!

It’s easy to understand why people turn to bark collars, in a state of despair – it’s not uncommon to hear of dogs that bark so persistently that their owners have received angry letters from the neighbours, plus a complaint or two from the local council. Most dog owners are simply trying to do their best, and in this position they are understandably seeking a quick, easy, and effective solution. For as little as $29.95 (or less if rented), bark collars promise a calm and quiet dog almost immediately without the need of any professional intervention. But there’s a lot of fine print omitted from the packaging, which dog owners ought to know…

For a start, regardless of the ethical considerations around bark collars, they still really only work for a limited period of time before most dogs habituate to the punishment (i.e. they get used to it) and start barking again. This is because the underlying reason for the barking is never addressed, and the dog still feels an inherent need to express their concerns. The bark collar never changes the boredom, frustration, stress, anxiety or loneliness that causes dogs to bark in the first place – in fact, the application of a bark collar actually makes these things dramatically worse.

Secondly, although bark collars might appear to work for the first short period, this is not because dogs have learnt new or better behaviours, or miraculous coping strategies to deal with their barking addiction. Dogs stop barking when they wear bark collars simply because they have been caused shock, pain, or fear which temporarily jolts them out of their original behaviour pattern. As a result of this forceful method, many dogs go on to develop some kind of fallout (i.e. new undesirable behaviours) because their confidence and trust has been undermined in the training process. Many dog owners don’t realise this fallout is directly due to the barking collar as it may take time to develop, and because of this their dog is mistakenly considered to be at fault... again.

If you have a barking dog, there are proactive things you can do to resolve this, none of which involve harsh or unpleasant consequences for your dog. As a starting point you can ask yourself two questions to set you on the right path:

Why is my dog barking? What are they feeling? Are they bored, frustrated, anxious, stressed, or lonely? Are they sick or sore? Is the environment causing them to bark – are there birds or possums, or people walking past the property all day?How can I take responsibility for this situation at a root level? Am I giving my dog enough exercise, positive training, nutrition, love and attention? Can I alter my dog’s environment to reduce stress or stimulation for them – for example, can I leave them inside the house, or can I set up an area outside the house where things won’t bother them as much?

Surround yourself with the right professionals – you may consider a Vet for a physical check-up, and a Positive Reward-Based Trainer to gain an understanding of your dog’s behaviour and environment. Depending on your dog’s individual circumstances, your Vet or Trainer may recommend a Veterinary Behaviourist or prescribe short-term medical intervention in conjunction with your training plan.

Whilst some barking dogs do so for more complex reasons (such as separation anxiety), many simply bark because their needs for mental & physical stimulation and companionship aren’t being met – whilst dog owners have every intention to provide this, they have limited time to fulfil their dog’s requirements, particularly in the early years when those requirements are quite substantial. One very straightforward and affordable solution to this is a professional dog walker – and best of all, it’s 100% enjoyable for your dog (not like a barking collar, which all dogs agree is rubbish).

Have you ever considered that the reason for your dog’s barking may simply be solved by giving them more to look forward to in every day – and what a wonderful solution that would be. We transform bored, frustrated, lonely and barking dogs into happy, calm, and relaxed dogs on a daily basis, and your dog could be one bark away from a life of fun, friends, and adventure. Send us an email and we’ll let you know if we can help you create a happier dog!

And if you liked this post, please Like Our Facebook page and join our dog-loving community where we share tips, tricks, happy snaps and videos of our adventures, and all good dog-related things!

Hi friends, and Yappy Christmas!

It’s been a slow start to Summer in Melbourne, but now that it’s finally begun, there’s two words that most dog owners have on their mind: DOG BEACH!

The beach is a great place to take water-loving canines for a change of scenery, and we’re especially lucky in Melbourne, as our coastline provides ample selection of suitable dog-friendly swimming destinations for you and your hound.

Before we get started, a few of our most important tips to remember when it comes to visiting the beach with your dog:

Limit your dog's time on the beach - we know it's easy to lose track of time on the beach as your dog is having so much fun, but chances are if your dog loves the beach (like most) they will easily overdo it without realising. Also, if your dog drinks salt-water whilst swimming, be mindful this can have a seriously dehydrating and laxative effect. Your dog is more likely to ingest water if they are fetching toys whilst swimming, as their mouth will be open as they move through the sea.Bring your own water and portable dog bowl - although some beaches have these amenities, they can't be guaranteed, and your dog will be extra thirsty around all that sun and salt water! It's important they still drink fresh water just as they would at the park.BYO poopscooping bags - more than you would normally need. They aren't always supplied at beaches, and even if they are, they can run out on popular days.Remember your dog will be on their "worst" behaviour at the beach. Think of a kid in a candy store. The beach is full of excitement and distraction, so unless you are the most interesting thing in the general vicinity, your dog may not pay attention to you. Bring EXTRA tasty treats and/or an EXTRA interesting toy to keep your dog focused on you, and don't hesitate to go for an on-lead wander periodically in between off-lead spurts.Be aware that other people's dogs may also be on their "worst" behaviour at the beach. The environment and atmosphere can be overstimulating for some, and this can lead to arguments over things like toys and food where they may not normally happen. There is a subtle but very discernible difference we notice between excitement and mania, which you can pick up from dogs' body language. As you would in a park, monitor the social dynamics and be sure to give your dog (and other people's dogs) enough space so that they feel comfortable and relaxed. Always watch your dog and remember it's much easier to prevent a dog fight than to stop one that has already started.Keep a really close eye on the sand temperature as well as the air temperature. While you may be wearing shoes, your dog is not, and the sand can be so scorching hot that it burns their paw pads on a sunny day. Before you start walking, and every so often afterwards, either place the back of your hand onto the sand, or test the sand with your own feet. If it's too hot for you, it's too hot for your dog!Watch out for "visitors" - snakes have been reported on Melbourne's Bayside beaches, particularly around rocks and brushy areas (such as long grass or bushes). Minimise your dog's time sniffing around the outskirts of the beach, and direct them to the shoreline or into the water to minimise the chances of a snake bite.

And now without further ado, let’s tell you about our favourite 24 Hour Dog Beaches in Melbourne!

Brighton Dog Beach (fully fenced)

Located at the end of Sandown St in Brighton, this beach provides a triangular stretch of sand and a mix of shallow and deeper areas in the water. This beach is one of the most popular in Melbourne year-round, so be prepared for a busy and exciting atmosphere here! On a pleasant day it’s lovely to go for a walk along Brighton Pier (on leash) and grab a coffee or a snack at the Brighton Baths café just nearby, which is dog friendly out the front.

Mentone Dog Beach

A 450m stretch of beach between Charman Rd and Plummer Rd in Mentone, with parking on Beach Rd or limited paid parking in a carpark above the beach (opposite Plummer Rd). A fairly steep, paved walk down to the beach, however this does provide protection from the busy road above. There’s also a great on-leash walk heading south, which can involve a trip to the coffee window at the nearby Parkdale Beach Café & Kiosk!

St Kilda Dog Beaches

St Kilda provides two of the largest spaces of beach available to dogs in the Port Phillip region, with parking available on Beaconsfield Parade, or for more shelter from the road, on Pier Rd behind Catani Gardens. Usually plenty of ice cream trucks in this vicinity!

Beaumaris Yacht Club Beach

Located next to the Rickett’s Point Marine Sanctuary (where dogs are prohibited), the beach at Beaumaris Yacht Club is one of our favourites as it provides a very long dog-friendly beach walk which is protected from the road by a vegetated hillside. Lots of rockpools to go exploring in! This beach is also very close to the gigantic dog-friendly Cheltenham Park (enter off Park Rd).

Sandringham Harbour Dog Beach

Adjacent to the Sandringham Yacht Club, the Sandringham Harbour Dog Beach can be accessed by entering through Jetty Rd. Parking is paid and limited, however it’s a fairly long walk down to the beach from Beach Rd (particularly on a hot day) so the paid parking is worth it. Get in early on Summer days to avoid disappointment. There’s an old-school dog-friendly kiosk at the bottom of the carpark which historically sells take away coffee, milkshakes, and simple, uncomplicated food.

We hope your Summer is packed with exciting visits to these beaches, and let us know if you discover any more we should know about.

In the meantime, if you're a dedicated pet parent and you liked this post, you should also Like Our Facebook Page where we share dog-related tips, tricks, photos, videos, and funny memes with our dog-loving community.

And if you'd love to take your dog on more exciting adventures in Summer but you simply don't have time... we can help! We have private and social group adventures available so your dog can party all Summer long no matter what you've got on. Simply send us an email - it's easy and free to get started!

Hey dog lovers!

So now that it's past November 1st, we can officially say the festive season is around the corner. We were chatting to a few clients this week about their Christmas (or Hanukkah!) plans, and the topic of Kris Kringle came up, which really got us thinking...

What do you buy for someone who really loves dogs, but doesn't actually need more stuff for their dog? Because let's face it, if they are really die-hard, they'll probably have a museum's worth of dog toys, bowls and other paraphernalia already... which is totally not weird at all and certainly does not describe our house.... #lies #spoiltdogs #crazydogpeople

Anyway, to save you wracking your brains for the perfect answer, we have 11 AWESOME gift ideas that every dog lover will drool over - with lots of time before the Christmas rush!

1. Peppermint Bark Dog Tin ($42)

Ironically, although chocolate and dogs should never go together... they are a fabulous combination in the Peppermint Bark Dog Tin. With such moreish contents and a gorgeous keepsake tin, you can't go wrong. Available at Williams Sonoma, Chadstone.

2. Dog Christmas Ornaments ($9-19)

in a selection of breeds - why not assemble a pack?!

3. Rodd & Gunn Cap ($49-59)

Rodd & Gunn's famous logo - a Pointer in traditional stance - features across a range of their quality, unisex caps. You won't disappoint a dog lover with this gift (particularly in Summer) - the only issue will be which colour to choose! Monogramming available on some styles - biggest range at Rodd & Gunn store, but also stocked at DJ's.

4. Anything from Peter Alexander (~$50)

If there's one thing Peter Alexander is known for besides great PJ's, it's his great love of dogs. This brand is a canine connoisseur's

5. Dog Books @ Dymocks (~$25-40)

Whether a coffee table book or a proper read, a book about your friend's favourite subject matter is sure to go down a treat. For coffee table books try Underwater Dogs or Wet Dog; and for something more substantial, we recommend Endal or A Friend Like Henry.

6. Dog Socks ($10-15)

Not only are socks a great stocking stuffer, they're suitable to literally anyone because... we all wear socks! Between Myer and David Jones, a range of brands do these, including Happy Socks, Mitch Dowd, and Rodd & Gunn. But our favourites are these classic Bamboozld socks, because they have just enough "dog" without going OTT!

7. Rufus the Bottle Stopper (~$20)

One of our clients gave us a Rufus a few years ago and we still absolutely LOVE him. We didn't think wine could be more fun, but Rufus proved us wrong! We've seen Rufus hanging out at a few boutiquey shops or alternatively, it looks like you can adopt him here.

8. Winer Dogs ($17)

These little silicone dogs in varying colours sleep at the bottom of your wine glass during parties so you don't lose your drink! How cute - and what a great excuse for more parties! Winer Dogs can be bought at some gift shops or alternatively online here.

9. The Dog Diary ($45)

So we've only just discovered Nooshel's "The Dog Diary" but we certainly like what we see. It's stylishly designed in Australia and full of adorable dog-isms to keep your tail wagging. Only available online at the moment, you can bag one at Peticular.

10. Donation

As tempting as it is to give a tangible present, sometimes the most thoughtful gifts can't be wrapped. A donation can be a wonderful gift which extends the joy of gift giving to a third party. You can choose any charity - every one is equally in need and worthwhile. The RSPCA have a beautiful Guardian Angel drive this year which allow you to sponsor a four-legged friend for Christmas. What a wonderful idea.

11. A FREE Heads & Tails VIP Dog Leash!

We've saved the best til last! Your dog-obsessed matewants nothing more than the happiness of their canine companion. Our fun dog walking adventures bring joy to even the most bored and frustrated of dogs! Best of all, their owners go to work without feeling guilty in the slightest. You can help score your mate a FREE Heads & Tails leash for Christmas: share this blog with them, and if they sign up with us before 31.12.18, they will receive their very own complimentary leash during our first meeting, so everyone will know their dog is a V.I.P. (Very Important Pup)!

There you have it! We hope these ideas make Christmas shopping for your dog obsessed friend (or yourself...) a breeze!

For all things dog-related remember to like us on Facebook where we post expert advice, hilarious memes and other tidbits.

For feel-good snaps of dogs having fun and clowning around, follow us on Instagram!

And to book in some awesome dog walking adventures for your dog - simply send us an email!

Til next time, happy walking!

Hi friends,

At some point, nearly every dog needs medication for some reason or another. They're only human after all!

Our dog is on chronic medication, which he doesn't love, but unfortunately can't avoid... so tablets are a daily occurrence in our household.

As taking tablets isn't a frequent occurrence for most of our four-legged friends, many dogs find the process a bit strange and uncomfortable.

Even for those on more long term medication can find the process difficult, as many tablets aren't quite to the culinary likings of the average canine.

In fact, our dog can't even stand flea & worming "tasty chews"! We really can't blame him, after all he has 220 million scent receptors (as with the average dog), and a strong preference for more pleasant items, such as used tissues or possum poo..............! Clearly, taste is subjective.

Many pet parents will resonate with something we affectionately call, "The Tablet Game", which involves administering medication to our dogs, believing that they've swallowed said pills... and then later finding them half disintegrated and covered in hair on the kitchen floor. Sound familiar?

Here's the thing though - feeding dogs tablets doesn't need to be a painful process (for the human or the dog). It can even be something a dog looks forward to every morning, if the experience is made enjoyable enough!

Most often, this involves hiding tablets in something truly delicious and irresistible. And really, as humans we'd probably remember to take our daily vitamins more frequently if they came wrapped inside a jam donut... incentives are EVERYTHING!

Here are our TOP 5 tried-and-tested suggestions on how to give your dog their tablets... to save you from playing "The Tablet Game" next time your dog needs medication!

1. Meat & Greet

When it comes to dogs, you really can't go wrong with meat. Roll it into a ball, stuff pill inside, and voila! We use minced beef (human grade), which you can get in 500g packs for about $6-7 at your local Coles or Woolies. What you don't use, you can freeze in portions for next time!

2. B-AN-AN-AS

Make those bodies sing, right?! Bananas are the perfect pill feeder - chop up into the segment size you need, make a little incision on the flat end, and insert pill. Simple. We use three pieces of banana - one chunk with the tablets hidden inside, and a plain chunk before and after... this just helps to conceal the whole operation! Shhneaky.

3. Say CHEESE

In small doses, plain cheese is great for dogs... and also highly motivating! Stick with your cheddar, tasty, mozz and cottage cheeses, and feed sparingly. Cottage cheese can be rolled into a ball with the tablets inside - and cheeses with harder consistency can be cut, allowing for a hole in which to implant the tablets.

4. Butter 'Em Up!

Never oily, never dry...! Some prefer Peanut Butter, others just plain. As with cheese, butters should be fed very conservatively due to their high fat content. A bit of PB on bread will convince most dogs that their daily medication is something to get excited about. Give it a go!

5. Pill Buddy

We've never tried these, but we're aware of products such as the Pill Buddy which are specifically designed to make tablet time FUN. We do prefer to stick to the natural/raw options where possible, but it could be super handy to have a pack of these in the pantry just in case!

There you have it! Remember if the tablets you're feeding are quite large, you can break them up into smaller portions with a pill cutter, or even pulverise them with a mortar & pestle before mixing them with butter. If you're still having trouble with medication, give your Vet a call - they have lots of strategies/options to suggest, as there's nothing they haven't heard or seen!

If you're a dog lover, Like our Facebook page, where we share the latest expert tips, articles and funny bits of what we do!

And for your daily dose of inspiration (aka pics of dogs having fun), come follow us on Instagram @headsandtails.com.au, and join the paw-ty!

Til next time...! :)

Hey friends,

It’s heating up in Melbourne and we’ve noticed those tongues are starting to pant significantly earlier on our walks than usual…!

We’re so excited for some warmer weather after a seemingly looong Winter, but at this time of year we’re always reminded to think of the effect hot conditions have on our dogs. We’ve just reminded all of our clients about our Hot Weather Policy, which is in place to keep dogs safe during Summer – canine safety is serious business for us!

We’ve had a couple of clients asking about the best ways to keep their dogs cool on hot days and we’re not short on clever ideas… we thought we’d share them here for you all to enjoy!

1. More Water Than You Think

2. Grooming Upkeep

Grooming is most important in Summer for keeping dogs’ body temperatures at an optimal level. Most curly-coated breeds will need a clip at the grooming salon, but for straight-coated dogs (e.g. Labradors) this means a really thorough wash/blow-dry (if tolerable) and a regular brush with a deshedder. If in doubt about your dog’s coat, consult a Vet or groomer particularly when it comes to giving your dog a haircut – sometimes shaving is not the best option for a long-haired dog!

3. Creature Comforts

Around the home, give your dog the opportunity to lay on the cool tiles or floorboards instead of the carpet – if it’s quite warm, you might even leave the air conditioning on for them (our electricity bills are astronomical during Summer and we wouldn’t have it any other way!). A paddle pool in the backyard is often a popular choice! If your dog lives outside, make sure he/she has shade – not just a kennel, but a tree / umbrella / veranda / marquee etc. that casts shade from above and allows for plenty of ventilation. And if your dog is a food-lover, why not try making them some frozen treats! Side note – if ever taking your for a drive, make sure the car has cooled down before getting them in.

4. Change Up Your Routine

On a really hot day, instead of your regular afternoon run at the park, it might be best to change up the time, length, and even style of your walk. Early to mid-mornings, and late evenings, tend to be preferable – with the aim to avoid the hottest part of the day, often around 3pm. Steer clear of bitumen / pavement / sand that has been baking in the sun, and if in doubt, place the back of your hand to the ground - if you can’t hold it there for 5 seconds, it’s too hot to walk on. Tone down the physical exercise and ramp up the mental exercise – some training / games in the shade can be equally as satisfying as a big run! Read your dog’s body language – they may want to go home earlier than normal. If you live near the beach, an early/late swim in the ocean is great, but just be sure to keep up your parasite treatment (particularly ticks) and be mindful of other ‘friendlies’ in the brush. And if you’re not beachside – a sprinkler in the backyard will be just as much fun (ahh, just like when we were kids in the good old days!).

We hope these tips help you and your dog have a fun and safe Melbourne Summer... ours is going to be off the hook, we can't wait! If your dog wants to join the party, just send us an email!

Happy walking :)

Hi friends!

If there's one thing we know, it's what makes dogs tick. There are other beasts that evade us... we couldn't tell you the back to front of a crustacean (so please don't ask us to walk your lobster). But canines are our world; our bread and butter; our muse; our life's work.

We spend a fair bit of time thinking about dog behaviour, and by virtue of this, their emotions. What makes them joyful? What makes them glum? As a dependent family member, their contentedness with life usually relies heavily upon decisions made by their caregiver - i.e. dog owners, or "pet parents" as we prefer to be known! After all, how can you really own a soul? #separateblogpost #potentiallytoodeep

We're fortunate through what we do to know some exceptionally dedicated dog owners. They're our clients, our colleagues, and our friends in the park. And after studying them for a while, we noticed they have a few habits in common which make their dogs really stand out as the happiest little Vegemites in the dog park. They're carefree and confident, well-adjusted, and they usually live pretty long, healthy lives. We thought we'd share what we've observed...

So - how do these 5 things translate to you and your dog? We think most people reading this post will be #nailingit when it comes to devoted dog ownership... because you wouldn't be here if you weren't dog obsessed! In fact, we wonder if you think we've missed any happy dog habits?

If you're a "crazy dog lady" or "mad dog lad"... follow us on Instagram

If you own a dog - you know this situation...

You're at the local dog park; you take your pooch off the leash so he can have a lovely unrestricted play... and then when you go to call him back, you get PEANUTS. No dice. Nada.

There you are, calling your dog... she may look back at you, or perhaps not, while she continues off on her merry way. She's probably:

Running off to meet another dog(s)Wallowing in a muddy puddleBegging for scraps/treats from anyone who will take noticeSniffing around bins, barbecue areas, playgrounds, and school bagsRolling in dirt and filth, or if you're lucky, a deceased bird/ratJumping up on other park-goers, much to their expressed dismay!Commandeering and deconstructing someone else's squeaky toyScavenging for trash/tissues/discarded sports tape/possum poopAll of the above, simultaneously!

Regardless of what he/she is doing, the main point is, it doesn't include paying any attention to you. Why?!

There are a myriad of reasons that various sources will use to explain this situation. Some are valid, and quite frankly, some are really unhelpful.

For example, there's a myth that dogs will essentially "refuse to obey" their owners if they don't "respect" them as the "pack leader". This is a real injustice to dogs, as nothing could be further from the truth. We won't go into the full discussion here, but to debunk this theory in two fairly solid words: "science" and "evolution".

In comparison to humans, dogs are simple creatures. They are exceptionally talented and skilled in certain areas, but their spectrum of emotion is much less complicated than ours. They aren't motivated by money, appearances, or ego, for instance. Dogs are driven by basic, honest needs which enhance and facilitate their existence (e.g. food, toys, praise etc.) Essentially, dogs are always just doing the best that they know how to do - there are no ulterior motives. Advanced concepts such as respect, shame, and guilt, simply do not come into the equation. Dogs do what works for them. That's it.

We see the first rule of dog training is to accept (and celebrate) the fact that a dog is a DOG. It seems a facetious comment, but genuinely, many training complaints come from a place where the dog owner has not recognised that the behaviours expected from their dog are actually human, and not canine. Without human intervention, dogs would not need to walk nicely on a leash or refrain from sampling the kitchen bin - these rules and expectations may be considered natural or normal by humans, but by dogs, they are abnormal and unnatural. In fact, from a canine's point of view, these ideas are disadvantageous. Why would you deliberately slow down your pace when you are going somewhere exciting? Why would you deliberately refrain from eating that perfectly good sausage in the bin when it could be your last meal? Are you crazy, human?!

That doesn't mean to say we can't train our dogs to live by our fancy human rules, including coming back on command even when there's a party in the opposite direction. But here's the clincher. As owners, the respect should come from US! It is the dog owner's responsibility to respect the dog's canine intuitive, to take full ownership of the dog's behaviour, and to teach the dog the desired skills. Once we do this (and stop blaming the poor dog), anything is possible. Repeat after me: there is no such thing as a bad dog!

As a side note - it's extremely important during the skill teaching process (and really, during any interactions with your dog) that you come from a place of love, and not fear. Of course you should be a great leader for your dog, but not the kind of "leader" that popular culture has defined within the pet industry. Think of the qualities YOU would like in a leader. You wouldn't like to be governed/managed/cared for by someone who is forceful, tyrannical and frightening... would you? On the flipside, someone who is calm, benevolent, confident, encouraging and consistent would really make you feel comfortable, or even inspired... right? Be that person for your dog!

In view of the above, the reason your dog doesn't come back to you in the park is this: firstly, you probably haven't adequately trained your dog the skill of recall on command. This needs to be practised in a distraction-free environment first, in stages, before coming out into the park where your dog becomes the proverbial "kid in a candy store". Secondly, you clearly are not the most interesting thing at the park (sorry)! Your dog will cast his or her attention to whatever appears to be most important at the time - for a dog, this will usually be the opportunity to eat, explore, or socialise. If you're not entering the park full of energy, with a pouch full of tasty treats, perhaps a fun interactive toy, and an exciting, engaging voice... you're simply not the headline act!

The solution to your problem? EASY!

Have your dog returning on recall in these SIX basic steps:

1. Take full responsibility for your dog's behaviour, and respect him/her for being AWESOMELY canine.

2. Provide fun, short, frequent (daily) recall sessions at home using consistent, positive, reward-based training methods ONLY. It is imperative that you maintain your dog's trust at all times.

3. Start small (e.g. recall over 1 metre) and gradually increase - if your dog can't succeed during your recall practice, the degree of difficulty is too hard, so back it up a few notches and make it fail-safe.

4. Completely avoid taking your dog off lead in high-distraction environments until you genuinely believe he/she will return to you: if you continue to allow uncontrolled situations to occur, it will diminish your training. Choose quiet areas whilst still learning - not "doggy central park" at peak hour. The goal is to create opportunities for success for your dog, not opportunities to fail!

5. Always arm yourself with resources: primarily, a fun toy and some irresistible high-value treats. Treats are not what your dog eats for breakfast and dinner every day (boooring snoooring). Think roast chicken breast, tuna pieces, minced beef etc. If you prefer store-bought treats, go for the natural, ultra-premium types which are super enticing because they are full of REAL meat rather than wheat/corn/fillers.

6. Be the headline act! You wouldn't watch a concert if the lead singer was texting on his iPhone and the band were chatting amongst themselves, would you? Be EXCITING and FUN, project your voice, actively engage your dog, and move around. If you want your dog's attention, you need act like the star of the show!

We're certain that if you put these steps into practice, you'll have a dog who not only returns to you at a busy dog park... but watches your every move!

Let us know how you go, and happy teaching! :)

Hi dog lovers, and Happy New Year!

It's been a while between posts, our apawlagies! On top of our regular dog walking activities, we've been flat chat undergoing loads of exciting changes behind the scenes! We're excited to share these with you in the coming months.

But for the meantime, we thought we'd tell you about something we did recently which we consider to be invaluable. Those of you who follow us on Facebook or Instagram will already be in the know!

We completed our Pet First Aid & CPR refresher course with A Dog's Life Pet First Aid & Nutrition! And boy did we learn some interesting stuff.

Though we'd previously completed a First Aid course, this one was SO MUCH more in depth, such that we found ourselves with jaws agape at certain parts! Did you know these...

10 CANINE FIRST AID FACTS

1. A dog's pulse is best located in the femoral artery (the back leg) - not in the carotid artery where we might look for it on a human!

2. Dogs are 3 to 4 times more likely to choke than cats. Hush cat lovers, with your intelligence jokes!

3. Even the friendliest dog may bite someone if he or she is in enough pain: it is a natural reaction.

4. Dogs can't swallow their tongues, but their tongues still need to be lifted out of the way for CPR as they can block the airway.

5. To maximise survival, canine CPR ideally needs to start within 12 seconds of the heart & breathing having stopped.

6. Some dogs can go into life-threatening anaphylactic shock from insect stings (just like humans)!

7. A fractured limb should NOT be straightened - it needs to be immobilised with a splint.

8. The breath rate for dogs is 10-30 breaths per minute.

9. Once applied, a tourniquet CAN NOT be taken off by anyone other than a Vet, because it releases extremely poisonous toxins! Also, a tourniquet should only ever be applied as the very *last* lifesaving option.

10. Snake antivenin costs upwards of $500 per dosage, and most dogs need at least 2-3 doses (sometimes more) in order to survive a deadly snake bite.

For those that already knew ALL of these facts - well done, you're a champion dog owner! But these were just the tip of the iceberg... you'd still really benefit from a Pet First Aid & CPR course.

For those that didn't know ANY of these facts... best book in your course sooner rather than later! Also - it goes without saying that if you enjoy hiking or bushwalking with your dog, or even frequenting the local dog beach, this course has your name written all over it. For less than $100, it is an extremely worthwhile investment into your pet's health. We completed ours in Melbourne VIC, but we're glad to report that PetSaver is available all over Australia.

We also highly recommend the St John Ambulance responder kit, together with the supplementary kit curated by A Dog's Life Pet First Aid

The peace of mind you can achieve by knowing what to do when your dog is in this situation is absolutely priceless.

Til next time, take care out there!

Just an impromptu blog entry to let you know that we're changing the way we do things when it comes to hot days.

The 2017-18 Melbourne Summer has hit us thick and fast, with a few 35°C days already behind us. It really got us thinking about how we're going to deal with extreme heat on an ongoing basis... and more importantly, how the dogs would cope.

By now, you've probably worked out this post isn't about mustard-laden frankfurts at all... or that old contestant from Big Brother.

After much discussion there really was no question that we had to change our tact, and do what most people would do with their dogs with a seriously hot day forecast: walk earlier, or not at all. What we do on a daily basis is all about promoting dogs' health, happiness and wellbeing... and if only dogs could talk, I'm sure they would tell us that they'd much rather be at home in front of the split system when the mercury started heading towards 40°C. It's a no-brainer.

We'd always had a sensible "pack up and go home" agreement when the heat became a bit much... but we thought to go one better, and have a clear-cut plan of action for all to see, so that the solution for any given day is right in front of us (and you).

Behold our updated and improved - super straight-forward and easy to digest. Unlike your mustard-laden frankfurt!

From now on, when the weather gurus at the Bureau of Meteorology forecast a day over 30°C, we'll be starting our days a little earlier... you might see us collecting your four-legged mate at 7AM, and we'll be looking to have everyone home by 3.

If it's an absolute stonker at 35°C or over, we may ask you if we can visit from 6AM, or reschedule to another, cooler day. Stonker days should be all over red rover by 1PM at the latest - it's "tools down" as soon as that thermostat creeps over 35°C.

You may be reading this thinking, "6AM?! Jeepers! I'm still in bed dreaming of a White Christmas at 6AM!". We get it - it's crazy early. But it's important we get out and see everyone before our parks turn into saunas, and our streets turn into hotplates.

I know it sounds like I'm joking - but those 'sauna parks' can cause heat exhaustion, and those 'hotplate streets' can severely burn paw pads. For many of the same reasons, we don't visit beaches or waterways on those days (i.e. sand scorches paws etc.). Also because of snakes, which don't tend to mix well with dogs. And stuff like this news article about toxic wetlands, which seems to get republished from time to time, just with a different date up the top.

SO! That's probably about it. If you have any questions about our decisions regarding the , you're more than welcome to email us. Rest assured it has all been devised with the wellbeing of our pets and people at front of mind. The way it should be.

Thanks in advance for your understanding and flexibility - we really appreciate it, and know your dog(s) will too!

It goes without saying that we are passionate about animal welfare at Heads & Tails Pet Care Services!

We're very conscious of the fact that, while we spend our days caring for Australia's most well-loved dogs, there are thousands of cuddly canines (and fabulous felines) sleeping rough in shelters, awaiting a better life with their forever families, as they richly deserve. During their time in the pound, these animals often go without the supplies our dogs take for granted: toys, treats, and cushy bedding to name a few.

Put simply, impounded creatures don't "live" - they merely "exist".

Many people turn a blind eye to homeless animals because they are simply too heartbreaking to think about... which is why it is so inspiring to meet someone who stares this issue down the barrel, and vows to take it on as their very own personal mission.

We were so excited to chat to , fundraising legend, and all-round canine crusader, Poppy Frances, who is making waves in the pet industry and changing it for the better!

Hi Poppy! Great to meet you. Tell us a little about yourself?

My name is Poppy Frances, I’m 20 years old and live in Melbourne, Australia. I am originally from rural Victoria so growing up on a farm definitely encouraged my love for animals. I am currently studying Health Science at university and have been a commercial model since I was 13 years old.

Now tell us a little about your pets!

I have a beautiful Shetland Sheepdog named Bree. She is 9 years old and I adopted her a year ago when she retired as a show dog. She is absolutely adorable, so loyal and just the best thing that ever entered my life! She is like my shadow and follows me everywhere. I am hoping to adopt another pup around her age in the next coming months to give her a friend. Adopting older dogs is really important to me as puppies are always adopted as they are small and super cute- however people forget that older dogs can still love you just the same- perhaps even more.

We couldn't agree more! How old were you when you realised you were an animal-lover?

Growing up on a farm, I was always around animals. I have memories from when I was younger, collecting the baby lambs and holding them in the back of the ute as my Dad mustered the the sheep up the road, and waking up before it was light to feed the orphaned calves whose mothers died at birth. My first dog was a Jack Russell named Buster followed by a Border Collie named Heidi- who were both gorgeous!

What's your favourite activity to do with Bree?

Bree loves doing absolutely anything as long as it’s with me- whether that be going to the dog park or beach.

All animals are individual - tell us something unusual about Bree!

Bree sneezes when she gets excited- so as soon as I grab the lead and we begin walking out the door she starts her continuous sneezing fit and it’s adorably hilarious.

Give us your top 5 must-have items for every dog owner?

A Sebastian Says lead or collar: if you haven’t seen this brand, check them out on Instagram. They make the most beautiful macrame leads and personalised collars- I cannot get enough!

Greenies Dental Chews to ensure your pups teeth and gums are clean and healthy!

A Kong Toy: Bree doesn’t really like toys, but dogs I’ve had previously would go crazy for these and occupy them for hours.

Nootie Daily Spritz for Dogs: oh my gosh! This spray smells AMAZING. I use the Japanese Cherry Blossom on Bree every day and people always comment on it!

Portable water bottle so that you can hydrate your pup wherever and whenever!

What inspired you to start fundraising for the RSPCA?

When I was 11 years old I witnessed an horrific and traumatising act of animal cruelty towards my two German Koolie pups by my next-door neighbours! I adopted the pups from the RSPCA and I knew they were massive advocates for putting an end to animal cruelty so I thought it was the perfect organisation to collaborate with and raise funds for.

That's terrible - but so amazing that you were inspired to make such a positive difference. How did your fundraising efforts go?

A month after the cruelty incident against my pups, I fundraised for the RSPCA Cupcake Day and to my surprise I actually raised the most money in Victoria! It was really rewarding to turn a negative experience into something that was going to help make a change. This year though, I collaborated with Flowers By Brett Matthew John

What a brilliant effort! Ok, this might be our hardest question so far: what are your top 3 favourite cupcake flavours?

This is soooo hard! Perhaps Chocolate, Vanilla, and Red Velvet.

What's your vision for animal welfare in Australia?

I believe that all animals deserve love, affection and care. It really breaks my heart when I hear horrendous stories of animal cruelty and puppy farms. I would love to put a stop to animal cruelty altogether and I honestly believe this can only be done through awareness and stronger punishments placed on people who do so. I strongly believe that pet shops should be banned from selling animals. The conditions in which I’ve seen some of those facilities are disgusting and the animals are generally purchased from puppy farms/mills, who leave the animals unvaccinated, unsocialised, underfed and without clean sleeping areas. They are basically bred for reproduction without any love or care and I think that’s devastating.

How can other people help animals in need, like you have?

The RSPCA does an excellent job in raising awareness and funds for animals in need as well as rehoming thousands and thousands of animals great and small every year. You can donate by heading to their website.

The RSPCA also holds many fun events throughout the year such as The Million Paws Walk and Cupcake Day!

This festive season I am running a Christmas Toy Drive, where I am collecting toys and other pet supplies for the animals still waiting to be adopted and find their forever homes. For cats we are collecting small soft toys, mice, balls - anything that moves really! For dogs we are collecting squeaky toys and plush toys.

Thanks so much for your time, Poppy! We'll be sure to share your contact details so that our readers know where to send their toy donations!

Best of luck for your Christmas Toy Drive and keep up the wonderful work!

To donate to the RSPCA Christmas Toy Drive, please contact Poppy on poppyfrances@me.com or phone 0477 555 852 to organise the items to be picked up or sent to the closest drop off point.

Ever had a nose full of dog breath? You know what we mean! Not that adorably gorgeous, infectiously endearing, marshmallow-scented 8 week old puppy breath...

No, we're talking about the pungent, eye-watering, garbage-odoured dog exhalant that hits you like a whack-in-the-face with a rotting fish.

Let's have a chat about THAT.

The thing is, bad breath - otherwise referred to as halitosis - can be a sign of something much more serious in dogs: dental decay. And advanced dental decay is increasingly being linked (via scientific research) to even more severe conditions, such as disease in the liver and kidneys etc. Preferably and practicably avoided. Here's how!

HOW DO I KNOW IF MY DOG HAS TOOTH DECAY?

Many dog owners consider that canine bad breath is normal, and/or do not detect dental decay in their pooch because he/she appears otherwise healthy. The small front teeth and "fangs" may also appear relatively clean, leading owners to believe their dog's gob is in decent condition. But in many of these cases, lifting the curtain to reveal the 'business end' of the mouth will tell an entirely different story. The premolars and molars up the back are where all the action happens, and by virtue of this, where all the gunk builds up. Check out your dog's mouth... what does it look like? What does it smell like?

Unless your dog has a set of glistening pearly whites, chances are there is some form of decay happening. If not, go you!

WHAT ACTUALLY IS TOOTH DECAY?

Just like in the human mouth, this gunk is bacteria which begins as a sticky transparent film (plaque) which can be brushed off. If it remains on the teeth, the plaque then develops into calculus or tartar, which is hard and stubborn, and has to be removed with proper dentistry tools.

Secondary to this, think of your dog's teeth like an iceberg. There's the bit you can see, and then there's the bit you can't.

Unfortunately, the calculus development does not only exist on top where you can see it: it permeates under the gum line, and that's where it causes some real damage. This is the stage at which you hear dentists talk about gingivitis and periodontal disease, and worse. By the age of about 3-4, most dogs would have some decay to this degree, unless their owners have been fairly religious about teeth-brushing from an early age. Sorry Dental-Stick feeders, this includes you, despite your best intentions!

HOW CAN I FIX MY DOG'S TEETH?

OK, so we've established that dental decay is bad... what can you do about it? The key is in prevention, rather than cure. As your dentist might say, it's what you do every day that counts - not what happens in the chair every 6 to 12 months.

FULL DENTAL CLEAN

Firstly, if your dog has established dental decay, have their teeth cleaned by a qualified Vet. A full dental involves teeth cleaning under anaesthetic, where ultrasonic tools are used and Vets clean thoroughly under the gum line (too painful without sedation). In many cases, x-rays are taken in order to establish the degree of any decay and/or defects in tooth structures (cracks, breaks etc.). Heavily diseased or broken teeth may be extracted or repaired depending on the impact this has on the mouth (some teeth are not preferable to extract, due to subsequent weakening of the jaw and risk of fracture).

For those concerned about the use of anaesthetics and x-rays: yes, there is always a very small risk with procedures of this nature. However, the risk (and pain) associated with leaving your dog's mouth in a state of decay and/or not having their teeth cleaned and examined properly is infinitely greater. Owners of dogs at increased risk with anaesthesia (e.g elderly, brachycephalic) should chat to their Vet about different sedation options and/or ask for a referral to a Veterinary Dental Specialist.

ANAESTHESIA-FREE CLEAN

Recently there has been a surge in businesses offering anaesthesia-free dental cleans for dogs, proposing to reduce the sedative risks for dogs. Whilst this is an attractive option, unfortunately anaesthesia-free cleaning does not replace daily dental care at home, or a full dental at the Vet. Here's why:

1. Plaque needs to be removed before it develops into calculus. Plaque develops into calculus after 2 days, so unless you book an anaesthesia-free clean every second day, your dog will have tartar build-up.

2. Calculus sits below the gum line and needs to be removed using ultrasonic tools: the pain and stress of experiencing this without sedation is too great for dogs, no matter how laid-back or relaxed they may be.

3. Anaesthesia-free cleaners are not able to x-ray the dog's mouth and establish their periodontal profile, and/or whether teeth require repair or extraction. This is an extremely important part of your dog's dental health which should not be overlooked.

If you're considering anaesthesia-free cleaning, you must do this after a full dental at the Vet, and as a "maintenance" measure before your next clean. In addition you must maintain your dog's teeth at home and ensure they are cleaned prior to calculus build up, otherwise the anaesthesia-free clean will actually result in hiding the severity of your dog's tooth decay. The outcome of doing this can be far worse, as your Vet may fail to pick up on nasty dental disease upon routine examination (as the visible evidence has been removed).

HOME DENTAL CARE

Ultimately your dog's dental health boils down to what you do at home. These are the methods we use/recommend, conjunctively, to maximise dogs' dental health:

1. Brush Your Dog's Teeth

This is the absolute gold standard in dog dental care. You should use a dog-specific toothbrush to do this: either one that fits over your finger, or one on a stem with multiple angled heads. You have to TRAIN your dog to use a toothbrush; don't expect a willing participant straight away. Once your dog has learnt to accept a manual toothbrush, you may consider teaching him/her to tolerate a dog-specific electric toothbrush (we recommend the Petosan Silent Electric Toothbrush). Please remember you must use a dog-specific toothpaste, as human toothpaste can be harmful when swallowed.

Nothing replaces daily teeth-brushing, so if you have the patience and persistence to do this, you've absolutely nailed dog dental hygiene. It's also the cheapest way to maintain a healthy mouth, drastically reducing the frequency for Veterinary intervention.

2. Store-Bought Dental Treats

The process of teeth cleaning has two separate functionalities. Firstly, the mechanical action of physically removing plaque from the teeth. Secondly, the coating of the teeth in a protective, plaque-resistant enzyme (for humans this is in toothpaste) which prevents the development of tartar. Unfortunately, nearly all dental treats and dental foods miss out on the latter component of teeth cleaning, limiting their effectiveness.

As dental treats go, Oravet Dental Chews are one of the ONLY products on the market to contain a protective enzyme which will actually act as a barrier to plaque on your dog's teeth. As dog treats go they are costly, but cheapest bought via online retailers and worth the extra cost for their efficacy.

An extra word on dental treats and their effectiveness: many dogs are one-sided chewers, meaning dental treats will only clean the dominant side of the mouth unless hand-fed to the dog on their lesser preferred side (watch your fingers!). It's fairly easy to tell if your dog is a one-sided chewer... is the tooth wear and tartar build-up equal on both sides, or markedly different?

3. Prescription Dental Food

Many prescription dental foods are in the same category as dental treats, in that they only utilise one cleaning action. Basically, the kibble sizes are bigger forcing the dog to chew each piece more thoroughly, which in turn, scrapes bacteria off the teeth. One particular brand does include a protective dental enzyme, however, upon investigation we found that the remainder of the ingredients were largely cheap fillers. We use this prescription food as a supplement to our dogs' diet, but not as their primary source of nutrition. We won't name the brand here, but if you'd like to know so you can follow our feeding routine, send us an email.

4. Raw Homemade Treats / Bones

Raw homemade treats are a great way to supplement your dog's dental care. Many dog owners feed raw meaty bones, and if this works for you, great. We unfortunately have three problems with bones (we've tried all kinds): firstly, that they cause our dogs to have violently upset tummies, secondly that they seem to break into sharp pieces, and thirdly, they are strongly linked to clean but cracked and broken teeth. So raw meaty bones are not for us.

In conjunction with an extremely high-quality prepared dry food, we primarily use whole carrots (tops chopped off), cored apples, and frozen blocks of minced meat (human-grade, not pet mince) which encourage our dogs to chew their food, cleaning their mouths. Bear in mind, your dog may not physically digest fruit and vegetables that are fed whole/uncooked, but we find apple and carrot absolutely harmless from a gastrointestinal perspective.

Side note: we include prepared dry food and don't feed 100% raw/homemade (i.e. including offal) as we are concerned about meeting micronutrient, vitamin, and mineral requirements in our dogs' diets. But this is a separate blog post waiting to happen.

4. Oral Cleansing GelWe had a big visit to our Dental Specialist earlier this year who highly recommended the daily use of Maxiguard Oral Cleansing Gel in conjunction with teeth brushing. This is essentially a solution containing Zinc and Vitamin C, both of which are known to promote healthy teeth and gums, cleanse the mouth and freshen the breath. Maxiguard is kept in the fridge, and can be used as a toothpaste or dotted on the top canine teeth twice daily (after meals).

5. Dental Toys

Dental toys are a brilliant way of encouraging your dog to chew and remove that sticky film of plaque from their teeth. We recommend any toy that is made from a tough rubber compound and can be chewed at the back of your dog's mouth. Pop a little smear of Vegemite or Peanut Butter inside if you need to create extra interest in the toy for your dog.

And that's pretty much it! If you have any dental tips or tricks not mentioned above, shoot us an email and let us know. Otherwise, we hope this has been helpful... and remember, next time you experience that whack-in-the-face with a rotting fish, there is something you can do about it!

Remember to find us on Facebook where we post lots of pics and vids of our daily doggy adventures - we guarantee you'll crack a toothy smile!

Hi friends!

It's occurred to us recently, there's a lot of misconception in the dog world- particularly around dog breeds.

We'd like to preface this post by stating that a dog's breed is not necessarily a predictor of his or her personality. Though two dogs may look the same, their characters can be completely different. However, dogs within the same breeds often share similarities when it comes to certain behavioural traits. Just as physical characteristics like face shape and coat colour may be passed down through the breeding process, so too can behavioural attributes (such as shyness, playfulness, fearlessness, etc.) This "predictability" is generally the reason why certain breeds/groups of dogs are chosen for certain jobs/activities- though as we know, there are exceptions to every rule.

For some reason, certain breeds are more prone to misunderstanding than others... so we decided it was about time to bust the myths and reveal the truth about these commonly misunderstood dogs. If you think your dog should be on this list, tell us why on our Facebook page!

This article features photos of our past and present clients, who are all beautifully trained and cared for by their owners!

1. GREYHOUND

Myth: "They are so fast, they must need heaps of exercise!"

Truth: Whilst Greyhounds are the fastest dog breeds, they are also a strong contender for the laziest. All dogs need a walk every day, but a Greyhound's exercise requirements are very minimal compared to the average dog. Most Greyhounds are satisfied with a 20-30 minute walk each day; a quick "sprint" is appreciated but not always necessary; and anything more than this is a bonus. A Greyhound's favourite activity is lounging about on the couch or bed in a nice, warm house. For this reason, Greyhounds make excellent companions for older people or those not up to an energetic power-hour every day.

2. JACK RUSSELL

Myth: "Jack Russells don't need much exercise because they're small..."

Truth:

3. BULL ARAB / BULL TERRIER / BULL ANYTHING

Myth: "All breeds with the word "bull" in them are aggressive!"

Truth: We really don't like hearing about "bully" breeds being tarnished with this brush; some of the gentlest dogs we have met are "bull" breeds. It is true that larger breeds of dogs have a higher capacity for damage due to their sheer size, but this says nothing of their predisposition to aggression in the first place. All dogs require repeated positive exposure, obedience training and socialisation from a young age in order to develop a balanced temperament; together with adequate mental and physical exercise. Without this, any dog can become nasty. As with all breeds, dogs are either the result of irresponsible breeding, and/or a reflection of their owner. Unfortunately, due to their 'tough' exterior Bully breeds are often attractive to dog owners without the right intentions. This is the minority, however, as Bully breeds are subject to media heat and blame, the reputation is perpetuated. We hope that the increasing awareness around Responsible Dog Ownership and Breed Specific Legislation puts responsibility/blame back where it belongs (i.e. on the humans) and allows for Bully breeds to be recognised as the wonderful canine citizens that they truly are.

4. BORDER COLLIE

Myth:"Border Collies are the smartest dogs so they don't need training!"

Truth:

5. LABRADOR

Myth: "Labradors are used for Guide Dogs so they are naturally well-behaved!"

Truth:It goes without saying that medical service dogs go through extremely rigorous testing and there are many dogs who don't pass due to various reasons. Labradors are tremendously friendly and biddable, but they most certainly aren't "naturally well-behaved", generally speaking. Labradors are well known as "stomachs-on-legs", and are amongst the most-claimed breeds of dogs when it comes to pet insurance, specifically due to the ingestion of foreign objects. Labradors can make beautiful companions, but it should remembered that their first loyalty is to their appetite, and the perceived edibility of an item (e.g. socks, furniture etc.) has little influence on a Labrador's decision to consume it. The Labrador's obsession with eating makes training a breeze, but can cause havoc in other areas (e.g. stealing food from the table etc.) A new Labrador in the family is a great reminder to keep the house clean and uncluttered at all times!

6. RESCUE DOGS

Myth: "Rescue Dogs all have baggage!"

Truth: Some rescue dogs do come with baggage because they haven't had the ideal start in life, but this is different between individuals. Not all rescue dogs have had a terrible beginning: many are well-loved companions who have been surrendered due to an unavoidable and unexpected change in circumstances. Even those who have had a poor start in life often respond tremendously to rehabilitation with their foster carers and new owners. T

If you or someone you know would like recommendations on Rescue Groups, please email us. We have plenty of great suggestions!

There you go - our top 6 misjudged dog "breeds"... okay, the last one was a bit of a trick!

If you think your dog is frequently misunderstood, share a photo and tell us a story on our Facebook page! We'd love to hear it!

Hi everyone, hope you're all surviving the blast of Winter this week!

Being Pet Dental Month, we had intended to bring you a piece on dental health for doggies this week. BUT after encountering a medical emergency with one of our canine crew a few days ago, we thought we'd put teeth aside to talk about a serious condition that ALL dog owners should know about.

A warning before you read any further, there will be a stomach-turning image appearing later in this post. Best not read while you eat!

So! Let's jump straight in and have a chat about HGE.

Note: This post has been updated on 2/7/19.

"HORRIBLE GUT EXPLOSIONS"

WHAT IS IT?

HGE stands for Haemorrhagic Gastro Enteritis, but if you have trouble remembering that, just think "Horrible Gut Explosions" - it's basically the same thing in layman's terms.

WHO GETS IT?

HGE can apparently affect any dog, however it seems to be especially prevalent in breeds who are prone to scavenging, like Labradors and Golden Retrievers. Research has suggested that young miniature and toy breeds are also predisposed to this condition. Dogs who develop HGE are often completely healthy otherwise.

Dogs who have had HGE previously have an increased chance of repeat episodes.

HGE itself is not believed to be transferable to dogs or humans. However, some related/root causes may be contagious (e.g. parasites, Parvovirus), so rigorous hygiene practices are advised.

WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE?

HGE usually presents as very sudden acute vomiting and/or bloody diarrhoea (either one can come first). The blood is characteristically bright red and very significant in volume (not just a few drops, as you may see in cases of non-HGE diarrhoea). Refer to the photo at the end of this article for a reference on HGE-typical diarrhoea. It is this fecal presentation which gives rise to the colloquial term, "strawberry jam" or "raspberry jam" (no, we did not make this up!). The smell of HGE diarrhoea is exceptionally foul.

Other signs can include a painful abdomen, decreased appetite, fever, lethargy, and behavioural changes.

WHY IS IT SO SERIOUS?

Untreated, it can be lethal. Dogs experiencing HGE tend to lose a lot of fluid very quickly, and can become gravely ill within hours purely due to dehydration. If your dog appears flat or lethargic in combination with vomiting and bloody diarrhoea, it is absolutely imperative that you visit a Vet ASAP and begin fluid treatment. You cannot treat dehydration simply by encouraging your dog to drink more water. The earlier you respond, the better - never wait to see if it clears up. The point at which it "looks serious" can sometimes be too late to recover from.

WHAT CAUSES IT?

No definitive cause has been pinpointed/proven for HGE, however it has been suggested that the following factors may play a part, or be related in some way:

- Bacterial infection

- Parasitic infection

- Hypersensitivity to ingested stimuli

- Hard diet change

- Anxiety or hyperactivity

- Foreign substance ingestion

- Ulcers

- Gastric trauma

- Pancreatitis

It should be noted that the following conditions may initially present clinically similar to HGE, but may be treated differently upon diagnosis:

- Foreign body ingestion

- Parvovirus

- Tumors

- Immune-related diseases

- Intestinal intussusception or volvulus

HOW IS IT DIAGNOSED?

You can assist your Vet by taking a photo of your dog's diarrhoea/vomit at home, or bringing a sample with you to the clinic... seriously!

Vets can often diagnose HGE with a blood test called a PCV, plus a physical examination. Further procedures (such as scans or even exploratory surgery) are sometimes required to rule out more serious causes. It is absolutely worth going ahead with further diagnostics if your Vet deems them necessary, due to the seriousness of the condition.

HOW IS IT TREATED?

In nearly all cases of HGE, IV fluid therapy is required in order to prevent the dog from dehydration. IV fluid therapy is painless, and involves a drip inserted via a catheter into your dog's vein- just like human patients often have. Finding this vein may require the Vet or Vet Nurse to shave a patch of hair on your dog. Your dog is then confined to a crate or small space while the condition passes. Generally speaking, the earlier your dog receives IV fluid therapy, the less time he/she will need to spend in hospital.

Food may be withheld for the first day or so, to allow the gut to settle.

If your dog is not clinically dehydrated, your Veterinarian may choose to send him/her home under your close supervision, but strictly advise you to come back if the condition worsens.

Many dogs will have an anti-nausea injection to help reduce vomiting episodes. Some Vets will complement this with a gastric-protectant medication. Gut stoppers (to reduce stools/diarrhoea) are usually not used, as it is important for the diarrhoea to pass through.

Some pain medication may be administered if the Vet decides the dog is in pain upon feeling his/her abdomen. Never give your dog pain medication unless it has been prescribed by the Vet - most human painkillers and anti-inflammatories (like Panadol and Nurofen) are toxic to dogs.

If the dog is displaying an elevated temperature, he/she may be given antibiotic treatment. Some Vets prefer to administer antibiotics preemptively to prevent any chance of infection while the intestinal lining is so sensitive; others prefer to withhold antibiotic treatment unless an infection is clearly present - your Vet will know the right course of action for you and your dog.

If parasites (i.e. intestinal worms) are suspected, the dog will likely be given worming treatment in addition to a preventative. To clarify, the preventative is what we buy from the Vet or pet shop and give our dog(s) each month. The treatmentis a Veterinary product used to treat established infestation. Unless you can confirm with your Vet the date of your dog's last intestinal wormer dosage, it might be necessary for him/her to treat for this cause.

In severe cases of dehydration, a blood or plasma transfusion may be necessary.

If HGE is related to a more serious cause (e.g. pancreatitis), further treatment is necessary.

All dogs with HGE are advised to go on a bland diet for approximately a week following discharge from hospital. This can be made at home or purchased from the Vet. Our homemade diet has been boiled chicken breast and white rice, minced in a food processor - served periodically in small amounts, cool/cold with a dash of water. It's really important that you use human-grade meat, within date, and make fresh batches every 2-3 days maximum (i.e. it should be fresh enough for a human to eat). If you don't have time to concoct this recipe, you will need to purchase special wet and/or dry food from your clinic. Generally dogs need to be reintroduced to their regular food slowly after an episode of HGE.

Prognosis for HGE is good if treated early, and dogs who receive appropriate medical care can expect to make a full recovery within 1-2 weeks.

WHAT DOES THE TREATMENT COST?

It's difficult to say how much treatment for HGE will cost. It largely depends on how dehydrated your dog is before they get to the Vet. Generally, the earlier they are seen to, the less treatment they will need, and the lower your Vet bill will be.

Your treatment cost may also be affected by whether your dog is treated at a regular Vet clinic or a 24 Hour Emergency Centre with specialised facilities and round-the-clock medical attention. We have always felt more comfortable with the latter option (particularly overnight) as we prefer our dogs to be under constant supervision.

As a ball park figure, our own experiences with HGE have cost between $1500 - $7000 (AUD) per episode. In the more severe cases, surgery was required to rule out foreign body ingestion (as the imaging was inconclusive).

If affordability may be an issue for you, there's a few things you can do to manage this:

1. Consider using a regular Vet clinic for treatment during the day, and transferring your dog to an Emergency Centre at night (only if your dog is stable enough to be transported - speak to your Vet).

2. Ask your Vet for an upfront estimate before any care is provided. Most clinics will provide this to you automatically. Ask the Vet to call you if your dog's needs increase while they are in the clinic (and make sure your phone is set to ring loudly overnight so you don't miss their call).

3. Be totally upfront with your Vet about your means - they may cater to some kind of payment plan such as Vet Pay or Gem Visa.

4. Investigate alternative Vets in your area - in Melbourne, Lort Smith Animal Hospital never turns away a pet in need of emergency treatment. On top of being very affordable, Lort Smith also offer certain discounts and payment plans for those who need them.

5. For future, look at taking out an insurance policy - but be sure to query whether HGE will be permanently classified as a pre-existing (non-covered) condition.

Whenever querying Vet fees, please bear in mind that it is genuinely expensive for Vets to provide treatment - just as it is for human doctors and hospitals. The difference is that there is no government-funded healthcare program for pets like there is for people (i.e. Medicare). Generally Vet charges simply reflect the honest cost of proper medical care.

HOW CAN I STOP MY DOG FROM GETTING HGE IN FUTURE?

The million dollar question!

Sometimes HGE is unavoidable. Further research will hopefully shed more light on how to prevent dogs from developing this nasty disease. In the meantime, you can reduce your dog's risk by taking the following precautions:

- Give timely parasite treatments, ensuring your treatments cover ALL parasites (this normally requires 2 separate products)

- Don't give your dog your food scraps, and swap "junk" treats for healthy treats such as pieces of apple and carrot. If you prefer to buy pre-packaged treats, look for top quality natural products. Treats should be fed sparingly.

- Don't feed raw meaty bones; look for alternatives such as high-quality chews (not rawhide), frozen mince blocks, occupier toys etc.

- Don't feed your dog raw chicken due to high risk of bacterial overgrowth.

- Don't allow your dog to scavenge on the ground, particularly when it comes to animal faeces (such as possum poo). Some studies suggest the faeces of small, rodent-like animals may be responsible for severe gastric trauma in other animals.

- Don't change your dog's diet overnight. If you are looking to swap foods, you need to do this over a minimum of TWO weeks, but four if you want to be careful (this is often understated on dog food packets).

- Remove the temptation for your dog to ingest dangerous foreign bodies and substances. Put away all socks/stockings/underwear. Don't leave your dog with access to soft furnishings such as blankets, towels, string/dental floss, soft toys etc. if he/she is prone to chewing and eating them. Throw away food packaging, skewers, corn cobs, fruit pips/pits, and broken toys. Minimise access to sticks and stones. Never, ever leave your butter on the bench unattended (pancreatitis risk)!

LET'S SEE THE PHOTO ALREADY!

Below you'll see two snapshots of the case we encountered earlier this week. We're glad to report the patient is making a full recovery, and that the root cause was not a contagious one.

You'll notice in the below photo there appears to be a lot of jelly-like mucus, which is a common sign of gastric upset.

Following this episode, several more followed which had the appearance of slightly watery, brighter-red blood, in vast volumes.

If you've read this far - your dog thanks you!

Knowing this information and responding to HGE early can make a huge difference to the final outcome.

Got friends with Labradors, Golden Retrievers, or other dogs that hoover? Don't forget to share this with them... you could be saving a life!

Hi friends! We thought we'd share a few little insider tips with you that we've discovered over the years, particularly in relation to walking your dog in the depths of Winter. Brrr!

Though we're in the middle of a beautifully sunny weekend, any true-blue Melbournian knows that "weather forecasts" are to be taken with a grain of salt and that "four seasons in one day" is quite the reality in our very liveable (but very indecisive) city.

As you're aware, we're out walking dogs year-round, so we've picked up a few handy hints around surviving cold, wet, and/or windy conditions. Save yourself the hard work and check out our hot tips below. You can thank us later!

1. INVEST IN DECENT FOOTWEAR

If there's one major item you should invest in for Winter, it's a pair of decent waterproof shoes or boots. You might spend a little bit to start with, but getting the right pair of footwear will save you the awful smell and discomfort of wet socks and feet every time you venture outside.

For the first few years we churned through clunky gumboots and fancy goretex trail shoes (various brands; ~$150/pair) that would each only last about half a season before springing a leak. After a while we decided to bite the bullet and purchase proper hiking boots (on sale; ~$350/pair), which although heavier to wear, have been brilliant. After much trial and error, our absolute favourite brand (in both shoes and boots) is Zamberlan, which we sourced from Mountain Designs.

2. KEEP YOUR DOGGY TOWELS FRESH

We find dogs to muddy puddles like moths to a flame-- sometimes there is just no keeping them apart! Dog towels are a must have item in Winter, and fortunately they are quite easy to come by. We like to support Op Shops where possible, but where these aren't available we've relied on donations and Kmart. Here's the real gem though: when it comes to washing your towels, try soaking them in some hot water and laundry disinfectant (like this one) before sticking them in the machine. We find this is a foolproof way to get rid of nasty smells and stains, without contaminating the washer and other laundry.

3. PROTECTING THE CAR

Before we upgraded to vans, we transported our dogs in SUV's with a fitted cargo barrier between the rear seats and boot space (which created a divider). This meant that some dogs needed to be harnessed into the back seat, potentially bringing lots of mud and water into the car cabin. We tested a number of back seat protectors and found the best by far to be the Kurgo Wander Hammock. Whilst it isn't cheap, it is super durable where other brands would just rip and fall apart. We took it a step further and laid clean towels between the car seat and the hammock to soak up any excess mess (however, we always found the towels were dry upon inspection). For dogs in the rear cargo area, we laid a cut-to size rubber boot mat on the floor which was exceptionally good at protecting the interior.

4. STAYING SAFE

Your dog's wellbeing should be paramount at all times, but as wild weather correlates strongly with lost dogs, Winter is a particularly important time to revisit your safety measures. In a previous post we addressed your dog's identification, and in this one we'd like to tackle visibility. Melbourne Winter sees some especially dark mornings and afternoons, so why not prepare yourself with some extra equipment in case visibility becomes an issue? Both Rogz and EzyDog manufacture small light pendants which can be affixed to your dog's collar and switched on during dim conditions; but for serious illumination, a headtorch such as this one can slip over your dog's collar (or you can use it yourself). We have heard of some light-up collars online but haven't tested them, so if you have, drop us a line here. Remember, if you're in doubt about how your dog may react in adverse weather, it's better to be safe than sorry: stay on leash.

5. LAYER UP & LEARN TO LOVE IT

Ok, so you might not go frolicking through thunder and lightening... but a bit of rain never hurt anyone! Layering makes blustery weather conditions quite tolerable. We are big fans of merino thermals, soft shell jackets and goretex rain jackets. For the bottom half, we love these waterproof overpants because they slip on/off super quickly. Other than that, it's all in the mind! Most dogs don't mind Winter; in fact, many truly love it! What better way to know you're alive than to be out feeling the wind and rain on your cheeks?!

There you have it, our best dog walking tips for surviving the Melbourne Winter! We hope to see you out there... but if you still can't stomach the cold, wind, and/or rain, relax

Stay warm!

This week a very exciting package arrived at our doorstep.

The parcel contained "parcels" to pick up little uhh, parcels!

Woah, inception moment...

That's right... we ordered a great big box of poopscooping bags!

We've tried all sorts of bags in the past but from now on we're the proud loyal customers of Maxpak when it comes to cleaning up doggy doo-doos.

The best thing about these bags is that they are degradable. This means we're not contributing to the several billion cubic tonnes of plastic rubbish sitting in landfill by using them... unlike your run-of-the-mill freezer bags and other alternatives.

Secondly, the design is awesome. For a start, they don't have holes in the bottom like supermarket bags often do (and haven't we found that out the hard way?! *shudder*). Also, they are thick and black so you don't have to smell or look at the contents: big tick. On top of that, they have tie-up handles which are super handy when picking up a messy deposit. We'll save you the explanation on this one - just trust us, it's a great feature to have.

Thirdly, they can be multi-purposed... for example, we sometimes use them to carry treats, and pick up slobbery toys at the park (then re-use them for their intended purpose afterwards). You can even fill them with water and create a makeshift drinking bowl.

Lastly... they are CHEAP! We bought over 2000 bags for about 3 cents per bag! No brainer. And you don't have to be a business to order. We'd highly recommend them to anyone.

Before you order, come check out our daily adventures on our Facebook page - we promise we won't post pictures of scooping poop, but there's lots of happy smiling doggos to see!

Happy scooping!

Did you know that how you feed your dog is almost as important as what you feed your dog?

Whilst serving a meal on a silver platter (or bowl) might be appropriate for sick, elderly and/or fussy dogs; the vast majority of dogs could do well to be eating from a puzzle feeder (sometimes known as an occupier).

The benefits of feeding from an apparatus that is designed to dispense food slowly (and make the dog work for food) are abundantly clear. First and foremost, puzzle feeders help to provide the often overlooked mental stimulation that dogs require on a daily basis in order to feel satisfied. Puzzle feeders also help to protect against serious conditions such as bloat, often caused by gulping/scoffing food. Not least of all, some puzzle feeders actually help to clean dogs' teeth, which is fast becoming recognised as a standard requirement of care by Vets worldwide.

Over the years our hungry hounds have put stacks of gear to the test, and come out with a definitive TOP 5 list of dog bowls that we recommend you use to feed your dog.

1. Outward Hound Fun Feeder (approx $40)

These are our absolute favourite bowls and personal choice when feeding our own dogs. It's important to note we've listed the bowl and not the mat made by the same brand. Whilst the mat might be appropriate for smaller dogs, our big hungry beasts require the durability of the fun feeder bowl. We love that these come in an assortment of colours and shapes - we have a few and mix them up! These are appropriate for most diets including raw; we have stuffed meat and veggies into the small crevices of the maze and the dogs just love licking it out!

2. Kong Wobbler (approx $45)

The Kong Wobbler is a genius invention and a must-have for kibble-feeders. The bottom of the Kong Wobbler is weighted so the toy bobs around as dogs push and paw at it, slowly dispensing biscuits from the small opening. This feeder is also extremely heavy duty; ours has been mercilessly thrashed around and still works perfectly, with no cracks at all. One tip before purchasing a Kong Wobbler: check the size of the opening to make sure your dog's kibble can fit through!

3. Dogit Go Slow Anti-Gulping Dog Dish (approx $25)

We've used Dogit Go Slow bowls for years in various sizes and would definitely recommend them for moderate gulpers. These bowls are super heavy duty and dishwasher safe, so a real bargain buy at their price point. Like the Outward Hound Fun Feeder, these bowls have a rubber lip on the bottom to stop them from sliding around (which is good and bad, because whilst it's nice not to see your dog chasing their meal around the room, the grip does make it a lot easier). We still use these from time to time, especially if our dogs have been sick and need an easier feed. On a daily basis however, we find the Outward Hound much better at slowing down their gulping.

4. Kong Genius Mike (approx $25)

This one is slightly different from your average bowl, and we're not sure it's meant for meal feeding (or just treats) but it works. We'd recommend this only for large kibble/dry-food and vegetable pieces, as the Genius Mike is rubber and not terribly easy to clean on the inside (although we imagine a long-handled dish brush would do the trick). The beauty of this toy is that it really makes dogs work for what's inside. We have seen a Kong Genius Mike last for hours, and we've heard some people freeze them to make them last even longer! Just a heads up; whilst the rubber is heavy duty, we'd suggest sticking to harder options if your dog is inclined to actually tear and eat the rubber itself.

5. Muffin Tin (up to $10)

Bet you didn't see this one coming! The humble muffin tin (hint: mini-muffin tins also work for this application). These can be purchased from your local supermarket for under $10 and are perfect for creating an interesting and interactive eating experience. Plus, they are dead easy to clean. The muffin holes are ideal for stuffing food (raw or prepared) into - and to make things extra hard, pick up some rubber balls and stick them on top so your dog has to remove them first! This is a great option if you're on a budget; and likewise, if you're just up for trying something different. If yours is a non-stick tin, keep an eye out for any scratches where the teflon is flaking and be sure to replace once this happens (as you would for yourself). This should take a long time to happen (if at all) since the tin will not be subject to any baking.

There you have it!With fun, interesting receptacles like these, who needs a plain old silver dog bowl?

For more expert tips and advice, stay tuned to our blog - and to see our daily dogscapades, follow us on Facebook!

Happy feeding! :)

How safe is your dog, really?

We just wanted to touch on dog identification, since it is often overlooked or forgotten but is so incredibly important.

We can't quote the exact stats, but know that many dogs go missing every day... and as you can imagine we've found a fair few on our daily travels. The key to how quickly lost dogs are reunited with their families relies precariously upon a tiny tag that may or may not hang off their collar.

Many owners don't even think their dogs could go missing, because often the reasons they do so are quite unpredictable... some examples might include:

- Property fencing has degraded over time, owners haven't noticed

- Property fencing has broken/blown over due to extreme weather

- Gate has been accidentally left open, sometimes by visitors

- Dog has become frightened due to storm/fireworks and fled

- Dog has separation anxiety and has scaled the fence

- Dog has tunnelled under the fence

Going missing is a frightening and dangerous experience and something that we recommend owners protect their dogs against, to the best of their ability (e.g. check fencing, self-shutting gates or 'shut the gate' signs, etc). But occasionally these situations can't be avoided, and it's an extremely good idea to be prepared regardless. You can do this by ensuring your dog's identification is up to date so they can return home ASAP.

Most dog's have three forms of identification.

Heads & Tails dogs have four:

1. Council registration tags (heavy duty printed plastic)

2. Microchip (implanted)

3. Your own tag (usually metal, engraved, attached by metal ring)

4. Heads & Tails tag (heavy duty printed plastic)

In the case that your dog does go missing, relying on only the first two identification methods usually involves a scary trip to the pound where your dog is handled by unfamiliar people in a stressful environment. You are then usually obliged to pay a dog-at-large fine. Whether the pound is able to make contact with you depends on whether you have registered your dog with the Council, and/or whether your contact details are up to date in their system. Microchips are at risk of failing in this regard: dog owners often register their microchip details when their dog is a puppy, and forget to update them when changing phone numbers or moving house. Microchips can also travel within a dog's body, and a large number are suspected to be potentially faulty worldwide (read more here).

Now, think of all the fuss you can avoid if you simply ensure your dog is wearing his/her own tag, complete with two contact phone numbers and your current address. Some dogs have the added security of these funky collars, too. Be sure to check your tag every couple of months to ensure your details are still visible and haven't worn away. We also advise using a heavy-duty split ring (pictured below) to affix your tag, as sometimes leads are mistakenly attached to split rings, causing them to unravel. These can be purchased at your local hardware or office supplies store; they are much thicker and more durable than the rings supplied with your dog tag to begin with. For extra insurance, use two!

The Heads & Tails crew have an extra card up their sleeve... or, on their collar! Our four-legged mates enjoy the added protection of our super tough plastic tags (complete with serial numbers) as a free inclusion of their service. This means that no matter what happens to their engraved tag, microchip or Council registration, they have a permanent lifeline with us. Though no one has gone missing whilst adventuring with us, our tags have already saved dogs "wagging" from home on EIGHT occasions since implementation in 2015. We think that's pretty awesome. After all, we care for dogs as family members, not just pets!

When we come back to WHY dogs escape - often this is because they are bored and looking for entertainment. We provide excitement and adventure to dogs while their owners are at work so all they do at home afterwards is sleep. If your dog is a family member who could do with some extra care during the day, simply send us an email and we'll be happy to help.

Want to get to know us a little more first? Follow our Facebook page where we post daily updates of our tail-waggingly awesome adventures.

Til next time, happy walking!

As you can imagine, we go through a few dog toys at Heads & Tails... in fact, we'd go as far to say we've tried most of them!

There's a huge variety available, but it's usually hard to know which ones will go the distance until you get out and give them a go. Since these products often aren't cheap, this can be quite an expensive process... and before you know it, you've blown half your pay cheque on prezzies for your pet... oops!

Luckily we've done all the hard work for you. Our happy little Heads & Tails crew members have tried and tested lots of dog toys and picked their top five favourites for park play. We did ask the gang to bear a few things in mind when making their selections:

Firstly, we were looking for toys that would last the distance. No toy is indestructible, but we expected a favourite toy to remain intact and functional whilst submitted to some pretty *rigorous* testing.

Secondly, the toys needed to be easy to clean... because a toy soaked in slobber (or worse) after a workout at the park is just a little bit gross. Especially if it then sits in the car or house until the next walk. So this pretty much rules out all fabric and plush toys.

Thirdly, and most importantly, toys need to be FUN, and interesting enough to sustain dogs' interest for more than 5 minutes! A boring old tennis ball simply will not do!

Check out our recommendations below! In no particular order...

1. Chuckit Ultra Squeaker Large (approx $20)

Chuckit is pretty much our go-to brand when it comes to dog toys because the products actually last. Not only that, but they're super bright so easy to find in the park. We found the Chuckit Ultra Squeaker last year and have bought a few since. As with all toys that make noise, the squeaker has a limited life span. However, we were pleased to find that when the squeaker died it wasn't at risk of falling out, and the toy remained fully intact. The dogs love this one and so do we!

2. Kong Squeezz Dumbbell Large (approx $23)

Kong is a household name in dog entertainment, and it's easy to understand why. As dog toys go, Kong are about as durable as they come. Our dogs are super keen on anything that squeaks, so the original Squeezz range is perfect for us. The Squeezz range comes in a variety of shapes and sizes, but the dogs inevitably go crazy for this large dumbbell. It's a little more interesting than a ball, but unlike the bone-shaped Squeezz (which is flat), the dumbbell still rolls around when thrown. The end sections are the weak point of this toy and do eventually come away from the main body. The great part is that this doesn't seem to ruin the toy (or its' appeal): when the toy wears, we have simply removed these parts so the dumbbell becomes hollow, and the dogs continue to safely enjoy it. Very highly recommend!

3. JW Pet Cuz Ball Medium (approx $10)

I'd hate to think how many of these Cuz toys we've bought - they have been a crowdpleaser for such a long time. Cuz toys come in a variety of different creatures but we keep coming back to the original, as they seem the strongest. We love that these come in bright colours and the squeaker is extra loud. They're also quite affordable: a medium Cuz (about the size of a regular tennis ball) is only around $10. We do have two minor issues with these, which are important to note. When the squeaker pulls away from the rubber, it is at risk of popping inside/outside the ball itself. We advise removing the squeaker when this first happens, for safety reasons. Also, for some reason we find dogs like to obsessively chew at the Cuz's feet... so we have resorted to cutting them off! When used during supervised play, Cuz balls are a great option... but if you have a highly destructive pooch, these might not be your first pick.

4. Chuckit Fetch Medley (approx $40)

We simply can't go past the Chuckit Fetch Medley from a value for money perspective. This product includes three different balls, two of which have interesting features. One glows in the dark, which is great for dusk/night walks and seems to provide a different experience for the dogs (we call it 'UFO hunting'). The other has strategically placed holes, which create a high-pitched whistle sound when thrown. The third ball is recycled, which doesn't bother the dogs one iota, but is impressive to us from a sustainability perspective. All balls are high-bouncing, particularly if thrown from a ball launcher. The dogs seem to really enjoy these; overall they appear to prefer the rubber texture in their mouth as compared to that of a tennis ball (and rubber is much safer on the teeth, just ask your Vet). These are a great buy.

5. Chuckit Kick Fetch Ball (approx $55)

This one is designed to get you and your dog moving! No more deflated soccer balls and trashed footballs; the Kick Fetch is a soccer ball custom-made for dogs. We put our Kick Fetch ball through the ultimate test and booted it around with a bunch of large, ball-mad dogs who gave it an absolute thrashing. Whilst there were small puncture-marks in the blue recesses, the ball remained completely intact and has done ever since. We love this toy because it gets us active as well; the dogs find it easy to pick up and carry; and it's a bit different from other toys on the market... there's nothing else quite like it. Take our word for it and put it on the Christmas list!

There you have it, our best recommendations for maximum canine engagement at the park. Remember, all toys do expire over time, and none are completely resistant to the enthusiastic jaws of a determined dog. However, you can greatly extend the life of your dog toys by ensuring they are rinsed and stored away after play. We recommend only using toys under supervision, unless they are specifically designed to occupy the dog in your absence. And if you're unsure what size of toy to buy your dog, always err on buying bigger rather than smaller: your dog's toys should not be small enough for him/her to swallow!

Happy playing! :)

Here at Heads & Tails we're so excited to reveal something we've been working on for a while... our big makeover!

As you'll have noticed, our image has changed... but don't worry, we are the still the same great service you know and love.

After 6.5 years, our faithful friend and previous mascot Barney the Yellow Cartoon Dog was ready to retire and enjoy a life of leisure. We'll miss him!

Our new poster boy is our very own beloved Ralph the Black Labrador; very cleverly put together by our talented Graphic Designer / Wizard, Steve Dance! We are so thankful to Steve for helping us to redevelop our brand to fit with our business values, professionalism and personality.

You'll also notice our website has completely changed and is full of helpful information about our services, and dog-related topics in general. Be sure to check out our page on desktop, tablet, and smartphone... it will look different on all three. Notice any mistakes or any links not working? Drop us a line, please!

Together with our face-lift we've got a multitude of upgrades planned, but we don't want to spoil the surprises all at once, so we'll keep you posted.

Thanks for sharing in our excitement... fun times ahead!

Katie & Mark